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D FOGG  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, February 16, 2011 2:07:10 PM(UTC)
D FOGG

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My dryer will run just fine, just no heat. What parts may I need to repair this?
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D FOGG  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, February 16, 2011 2:22:56 PM(UTC)
D FOGG

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My model number is not listed.
denman  
#3 Posted : Thursday, February 17, 2011 3:38:30 AM(UTC)
denman

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 11062062101 | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram

[COLOR="DarkRed"]What parts may I need to repair this?[/COLOR]
Cannot say as you will have to do some troubleshooting.

The first thing to check is the power.
The motor etc uses 120 volts while the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

Next would be the heating coil, the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off.
If the thermal cut-off is blown, get back to us as there are other things that should be checked before replacing it.

If all OK then check the thermistor.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
16062101.pdf (211kb) downloaded 58 time(s).

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judysjots  
#4 Posted : Thursday, February 24, 2011 5:36:42 AM(UTC)
judysjots

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Our dryer is model number : 110-96585210
On our dryer we have checked everything that appears to be a fuse or thermostat of some kind they read good but it still doesn't work.

The first thing we did was buy a new heating element so we know that works.
Your number for it is : WPL 279838

However, we tested the switches and the temperature switch seems to be completely dead.Could that prevent the element from heating?
denman  
#5 Posted : Thursday, February 24, 2011 6:54:12 AM(UTC)
denman

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

judysjots

Yours is a different model number so the troubleshooting could be very different also.

Oleas start your own thread using "Post New Topic" at the start of this forum section.

Otherwise things just get too confusing.
judysjots  
#6 Posted : Thursday, February 24, 2011 7:03:36 AM(UTC)
judysjots

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Posts: 3

ok I will do that.
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