Thanks for the reply. All 3 overload/relays are listed for use on the same replacement compressor with the same model capacitor so I assume those pinouts are the same. As you said, the refrigerator connection can be different, and for my ARB2217CB and the unit at the start of this thread, the recommended replacement is very different
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Overload, relay, part number: AP4013414

In addition to the relay listed for my model, I also bought the one for the ARB2517CB since it lists the same replacement compressor, capacitor and wiring harness as mine, but its recommended replacement relay is compatible with the original wiring harness. I actually installed and am testing that one since the klixon had a closer rating to the original than the listed replacement (with the bonus of not having to cut the wiring harness!) I found this document today to interpret the codes on tke Klixon:
http://www.sensata.com/download/4tm.pdf
The original had open/close temperatures of 105/61 deg C. The listed replacement was 125/61, but the drop-in replacement for the similar model refrigerator was 110/61. All had the same contact ratings.

I'm still looking for a similar document for interpreting the codes for the PTC part. Any ideas? When measured at room temperature, one was 6.3 ohms across the thermistor and the other was 6.6, but I have no idea what it goes up to while in use. Measured at the plug, the running draw of the refrigerator is between 153 and 180 Watts with the new part installed. The Tecumseh compressor listed under 200 Watts as normal. Are the PTC parts pretty standard, or is there much variation? Thanks.

Jim

Thanks for the input. I'll look up the article, although I'm hopeful the compressor is just fine. It's not making any odd noises and the freezer was 2.8 deg F this morning.

I should have specified that the measurement was for the entire refrigerator via plugging it into a Kill A Watt. While running, the entire refrigerator draws 153-180W. The power factor on the display oscillates between 0.97 and 0.98. With the bad relay, it was measuring 800+ watts when trying to start. When the overload kicked in, it dropped to 15 since the fans were still running.

Thanks again for the help.