Originally Posted by: awthorp 
As far as I can tell when the ignighter lights it would stay on as if it was lighting flame, the odd time the flame lights but will not stay on for full cycle
Correct,
Here is the basic operation of a gas valve ignition system:
When you select a heat cycle and the thermostats are cool, power is applied to coils, goes through the coils and to the igniter.
The igniter glows until it reaches approximately 2000 degrees(almost white hot). The radiant sensor opens and the circuit back to the coils,is completed and the coils energize and release the gas, the gas ignites.
The process repeats,until the clothes are dry.
If you have weak or inoperative coils, no gas will be released, and no flame,but the process will continue until the unit stops or is stopped.
The clicking and other noises, is usually the coil attempting to lift the plunger in the gas valve. it cannot because the coil wiring is weak and separating, eventually causing no draw at all on the plunger and no flame from the burner assembly.
You can check the resistance of the coils with a multi meter, but if they are cool(not having cycled a few times)you will get a false reading.
Here are the resistance readings for the coils :
The 2 terminal coil should read 1000 to 1500 ohms.
The 3 terminal coil should read 1300 to 1400 ohms from pin 1 to pin 2.
The 3 terminal coil should read 500 to 600 ohms from pin 1 to pin 3.
The resistance should remain relatively the same wether the coil is cool or "hot" from operation.
I hope this is a better explanation and is more assistance for you.