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This is a "sidekick" style, so it is all refrigerator, no freezer. We have the all freezer version next to it, which is why buying a new frig is not the ideal solution.
My usual appliance repair guy will not work on this unit because he had problems repairing one several years ago, so here I am asking for help.
Refrigerator was warm yesterday morning. I pulled it out, unplugged it since the fan and compressor ran non-stop. Compressor was also very hot to the touch, unlike the compressor on the freezer one, which was warm.
I read that the relay can sometimes be the problem, so I checked that and it does not rattle. The electrical cords and connections all look good. The only area of concern to me are the coolant connections where there is oxidation. Rest of the tubing looks clean and good.
I have gotten the frig to get cold by letting it run for a few hours, unplugging it for a few hours, running it a few hours etc.
Any suggestions? Thanking you all in advance!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 3/15/2010(UTC)
Posts: 213
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If you are lucky, it will have a defrost problem. UNplug the fridge, open door and blow a fan at it for 24 hours. Plug it back in, rest control to normal and if after running with the door closed for 24 hours it is between 35-40 degrees F, you have a fridge that is not defrosting. If after running for 24 hours it is warmer than 45 degrees at the normal setting, turn it up to the coldest setting, and see what the temps are after another 24 hours. If it is still the same temperature as the normal setting, chances are you have a sealed system leak of the refrigerant, and are looking at a major, and costly, refrigerator repair. If it is colder than 35 degrees after turning it to maximum, you have some other minor, intermittent issue
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Rank: Member
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FridgeDoctor, thank you for your help and advice. Here are the results since plugging in the frig:
1 - 15:10 - 45 degrees
2 - 15:50 - 40 degrees
3 - 16:20 -38 degrees
4 - 17:30 - 33 degrees
5 - 22:10 - 24 degrees Compressor turned off
At some point during the night, compressor turned on
6 - 7:30 - 26 degrees compressor on
7 - 9:30 - 26 degrees compressor off
8 - 10:50 - 34 degrees - off
9 - 16:10 - 26 degrees - comp on
10 - 18:10 - 26 degrees - comp on
11 - 22:30 - 36 degrees - comp off
12 - 3:50AM - 26 degrees - comp on
13 - 7:25 - 38 degrees - comp off
14 - 9:20 - 42 degrees - comp off
15 - 10:20 - 43 degrees - comp on
Note that I started to put a few things in the frig. No liquids have frozen though. I have the setting at "4" out of "6". Is the temperature range normal? Compressor will run for about 4 hours at a time, which does not seem normal.
The coolant goes to the sides of the frig with panels that are sealed in, so I can't open to inspect. The final run of coolant goes under the water tray at the bottom, and there is no ice there.
Any further advice?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 3/15/2010(UTC)
Posts: 213
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If those temperature readings are accurate, the good news is it does not sound like a sealed system leak issue at all. Since you are getting as cold as 24 degrees F in the fridge, that is definitely not possible if you were low in refrigerant. It does however indicate that you do have an intermittent issue, since if it stays at 24 degrees, food will freeze. But let me ask you this, where was the temperature probe while documenting those readings? It should have been located in a centralized location away from any direct air flow, which will affect thermometer readings.
Its impossible to say with any certainty what the nature of your intermittent issue is, it could be the fan motor, temperature control, defrost control, or some exotic problem.
Oh, also, the coolant does not go to the sides of the frig, only in and out the back wall or fridge floor. Furthermore, there will never be ice at the condenser, which is located underneath the water condensate pan, as that is the high pressure side of the system, and also the part of the system that the heat is transferred to the surrounding atmosphere, which is why it is located under the condensate pan, as the heat helps in the evaporation of the water into the atmosphere.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/23/2014(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Dear FridgeDoctor, thanks for the quick response. Thanks for reviewing the results and that a leak is unlikely! The thermometer was on the left of the second shelf from the top. I have moved it to the enclosed drawer underneath the middle shelf and will also adjust the setting to "3 1/2".
Given these factors, what steps would you suggest that I do to check the various components?
Looking at the rear of the frig, the relay is to the left of the compressor. To the left, connected to the left wall is a device with a clear cover. It is protected by a steel shield, held by 2 hex screws. I see a small gear turning quickly, but two larger gears are not turning. A copper coil is visible. I had at the very beginning taken this part out and checked it; it rattled a bit, but that could have been from the gears. It has several electrical connections. I cannot ID it based upon the diagrams on this website.
Below this device is something that looks like the capacitor.
No other visible devices.
I assume I have to access the thermostat and defrost timer from the inside of the fridge. Please let me know the steps I should take. many thanks again!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/23/2014(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Dear FridgeDoctor, I have been monitoring the frig and the temperatures have been consistent, around the 40 degree range, so I put more things back in it several days ago. Still much less stuff than usual. Yesterday afternoon, Apr 7., it started getting warm again. I turned the thermostat colder, but as of this morning, it was at 52 degrees. I checked the evaporator, and it is not iced over. There is ice on about 3" of copper tubing (exchanger) right where the bi-met def is clipped onto. The ice is on the end where the thin wire part becomes the larger part. Air being blown feels warm.
What should I check next?
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