Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
saLLy59  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, January 24, 2012 1:40:25 AM(UTC)
saLLy59

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/23/2012(UTC)
Posts: 9

Hello,
This is my first post, so I hope I do it correctly. I hope this isn't too much history, but I have tried to read everything I can find. About a year ago, I bought a GE profile arctica top freezer model PTS22LCPARWW, SN TF307493. Ice maker not used. If I decoded properly, it was manuf in Oct. 2003. I put this in an apt 4-plex that I manage. About 80 days after I bought it, it stopped cooling. The used appliance place came out - somehow for the first time in my life, I was still in the warranty period. Said it was the mother board and replaced it - this was May 2011. Then 3 days ago, she called to say it it was getting warm again. about 7 degrees in freezer and 42 in fridge. (not as bad as the first time) The appliance guys said it was the main PC board. I tried to tell them it was new, but there is a language barrier. they nicely offered to swap fridges, but all they had were small, icky ones. So, I felt in the freezer area and could not feel any air blowing; however, the compressor and the fan by it were running. I remember the first repair guy (who no longer works there) doing that. So, after some searching I did the following. Tested the ohms between the J9 and J7 and got .035 at 20k setting. If I read this correctly, it is 35 Ohms and is ok for top freezer. I think I was testing the heater & thermostat (by the way, 1st time in my life I have tested for Ohms - so not exerienced at all). so, next (per my research), I tested the thermistor by following the picture - 4th and 5th wire on Jl connector. It tested 16 on the 20k, so 16,000 compared to the 16.3k i am supposed to get. And, the freezer was 7 degrees at the time. So, from all that, I guessed that although only 7 months old, the main board was bad - AGAIN! Next, I borrowed a main board from a fridge the appliance guy had (a hotpoint that he said was the same board). He said he had just replaced it and there was a box there that said WR55x10942. Took the board out and got him to show me how to get to the fan the freezer. Took to board to my fridge and swapped it out. No change - in other words, the fan in the freezer did not go on. So, i proceeded to take apart the freezer and find the fan. Then, I turned it all on again and the fan WAS running. It was so quiet I thought maybe I couldnt hear it with all the plastic covers. Also, there was not any ice build up on the coils, but by this time the freezer was over 45 degrees. So, I put the back plate on after some frustration and fiddling. Then I put on the vertical plastic cover - the one that says "climatekeeper". At this point you cant see the fan blades. I turned everything back on and the fan was NOT running. so, put my finger on the blade and started it spinning. And, it started running! So, with it all still on, I carefully but back the top plastic cover that houses the freezer light. Felt the grill - fan still running - yea! Turned the temp up - fan goes off. Reset to 0 and 37, fan goes on. So, this leads me to believe the main board is OK after all, although I have not put it back. But, I still don't know how long the fan will stay running. My questions are: Is this fan that I believe is called the evaporator fan supposed to run all the time? Does it help circulate the cold air down into the fridge area, or help defrost the coils, or both or neither. What might be wrong with it that I could get it started by by spinning it by hand?
Thanks so much for reading and for any advice you might have
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
richappy  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, January 24, 2012 1:47:16 AM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
I would replace the evaporator fan motor, AP3952795
saLLy59  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, January 24, 2012 2:18:49 AM(UTC)
saLLy59

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/23/2012(UTC)
Posts: 9

Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
I would replace the evaporator fan motor, AP3952795


Thanks for the reply - Just wondering - Is this evaporator fan suppossed to run all the time?

thanks
richappy  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, January 24, 2012 3:07:45 AM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
No, it must stop during defrost period. If the evaporator motor is failing, it usually blows the driver on the motherboard. If you replace the evaporator fan motor and it fails to work, you might find it blew out the replacement motherboard. If you see a burnt resistor on the motherboard thats conformation of a blown driver.
saLLy59  
#5 Posted : Friday, January 27, 2012 12:04:25 AM(UTC)
saLLy59

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/23/2012(UTC)
Posts: 9

Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
No, it must stop during defrost period. If the evaporator motor is failing, it usually blows the driver on the motherboard. If you replace the evaporator fan motor and it fails to work, you might find it blew out the replacement motherboard. If you see a burnt resistor on the motherboard thats conformation of a blown driver.


The mother board looks great. I will try the fan first. I tested all the voltages on the mother board itself between the red/white and the blk/yel & white. They both tested at 13.3. BTH, the wht/yellow shows 12.4. Is my evap fan variable speed? Or does it have two speeds? I did not actually test the voltage at the fan itself. I didn'w want to take all her food out of the freezer and take it all apart - I hope that isn't critical
But, MOSTLY, do I need to get one of those slinger things somehow? And, should I replace the evap thermistro? I think I read that somewhere
Thanks so much for all your help - this will be so much fun if it works!
richappy  
#6 Posted : Friday, January 27, 2012 1:42:11 AM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
If the freezer is allways dry with not signs of moisture, you probably will not need to use a slinger.
The board puts out a variable frequency square wave that increases/ decreases fan motor speed as a function of refrigerator temperatures above or below temperature selection.
saLLy59  
#7 Posted : Friday, January 27, 2012 2:40:25 AM(UTC)
saLLy59

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/23/2012(UTC)
Posts: 9

Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
If the freezer is allways dry with not signs of moisture, you probably will not need to use a slinger.
The board puts out a variable frequency square wave that increases/ decreases fan motor speed as a function of refrigerator temperatures above or below temperature selection.


Thanks Rich,
I am not sure how dry the freezer is since it isnt working now. But, we live in san jose, CA. Not humid if that makes any difference. I wouldn't begin to know how to make a slinger anyway. Motor is on order - still not sure if I should replace evap thermister?
thanks!
i will let you know if it works!
saLLy59  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, January 31, 2012 7:55:55 PM(UTC)
saLLy59

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/23/2012(UTC)
Posts: 9

Originally Posted by: saLLy59 Go to Quoted Post
Thanks Rich,
I am not sure how dry the freezer is since it isnt working now. But, we live in san jose, CA. Not humid if that makes any difference. I wouldn't begin to know how to make a slinger anyway. Motor is on order - still not sure if I should replace evap thermister?
thanks!
i will let you know if it works!


just put in the evap motor today, and now it actually goes on! YEA!! THis was way fun. I found some service manuals online for the PTS, and no mention of replacing the thermistor unlike the SxS which do say to replace it. So, I didnt, fingers crossed. But, what I do wonder, is if it is OK to take out the icemaker, since there is no water line. This just gives her more room in the freezer. When I took it out, it leaves the plug bare inside the freezer. Do you think this could cause some electrical problem, or is it OK. I think my model might have come with ice maker installed, although I am not sure. Is there perhaps some sort of cap to put over the plug?? BTW, hardest part was getting the fan blade off of the motor shaft. It looks like some sort of retaining ring, but, gee whiz, what is the secret to loosening that thing?
Anyway, thanks for all of your help, you and Gene, by tomorrow I should know if the fridge has reached proper temperatures
cheryl
Users browsing this topic
Guest (5)
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.