Could not find info on the given Model Number. The following is for a XTLS3 not a XLTS3

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GU1500XTLS3 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208537797.pdf

A single blinking light is often a stuck key. The tech sheet shows how to check this.

I checked the diagnostic sequence (high temp, air dry, high temp, air dry) and it did not do anything.
Yes I figured that would be a long shot but worth a try.

Do I need all of those or just the Panel Cntl?
The way this is troubleshot is to check the keypad with meter as shown bottom middle of the first page. This can confirm that you have a stuck key in which case Item 1 Panel cntl needs replacing.

If all the keys check out OK the Item 11 Electronics Control Assembly is the most likely culprit. Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better


How hard is it to install for a do-it-yourselfer?
Not difficult just take your time taking it apart make notes on anything you feel you may forget. Also the following should help
https://secured.whirlpoo...520548/$FILE/8178022.pdf


If I replace this part and it doesn't work can I return it?
No usually if you order electronic parts you own them.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.