While rewiring the kitchen, the hot and neutral were switched. The Oven made some snap crackle pop noises and blew the breaker. After looking at the wiring diagram it looked to me that the only component that could blow was the electronic clock. I did check the emergency cut off (a thermostat) which had no issue.

I ordered a new one from AppliancePartsPros. A new part arrived and I replaced the part. The electric clock didn't power on. From my reading of the electrical circuit diagram, the clock is powered directly by the wall current (120V). There is no switch in between. I checked the power with a meter and there was 120V to the clock. I expected to see some lights and hear a beep. Nothing.

I have to make the assumption that the part is defective. It there any other reason that this electric clock shouldn't light up on power up? It is really a very simple wiring diagram. The black is hot (line) and the white is neutral. I tested the connections to make sure that they were correct and checked the wiring diagram twice to make sure the wires were connected correctly. This is an expensive part....

I would appreciate any feedback.

Peter

My Kitchenaid Oven is over 20 years old. I am sure that it is out of warranty. While my meter tested 120V at the hot, it also tested 120V on the neutral. This confused me. Detaching the neutral from all the connections, and then using the ground as neutral for the clock or the fan turned them on correctly. I now believe that there is a break in the neutral that caused the unit to fail. I haven't located it yet. Grounding the neutral connection to the clock made it work again.... There isn't a fuse in the diagram but that would be the most reasonable explanation. The reason for the 120V on neutral is that the meter will read 120 V if it is an open circuit. Hopefully, I will find the point of failure and solve the mystery.