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Your freeze need PartsBroz RCO410 3 in 1 Hard Start Capacitor Kit. It is a 3 – in -1 DIY friendly device that comprises an overload, capacitor, and relay device. It will replace all three components of a capillary system and avoid damage to the compressor.
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I have had this issue every 4-5 years, and it was always the evaporator engineering defect described earlier. I had a GE repairman out who showed me how to periodically maintain it by defrosting it for 2 days, then opening the grill, sliding the chassis, and blowing out the line with a compressor, or sucking it out with a vacuum. I just went to do this again, and I can't get my grill out. I removed 3 screws, and it will not budge. Does anyone know of something else that is holding it? I never had this issue the last time I did it, but it was a few years ago, and I can't remember if I forgot something else.
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Rags,
I looked at your photo and it looks exactly like my unit. My first responce is that you might be surprised how much liquid the evaporator drain (in the freezer section) holds. When the hose was blocked with ice, in my case, I siphoned most of the liquid out with some small silicone tubing through the front of the freezer section (you should be able to reach your finger tips to the edge of the tray.) There should not be any severe bends in the hose to cause a restriction, is there a possibility your wire is contacting something on the other side beyond the end in the tray. See if you can estimate the distance your wire is traveling, the hose goes no further than through the main wall between the freezer & refrigerator sections.
My recommendation is to get the free end of the hose back in place (it may be important to get it resecurred on the other side of the partition wall) and then inject liquid into the tray, through the access in the front of the freezer, and confirm that the fluid flows into the tray under the compressor (on the right side of the partition wall.) You may have a clear unobstructed tube already. If it flows then things should work...At least for a while depending on whether you have ice forming (like mine was) or just crud, which you may well have disoloved with the bleach.
The Icing kit does take some skill to install but in my situation it really did NOT fix the problem. Re-read my earlier post for info on it. My problem was definitely ice freezing at the spigot of the tray in the freezer, which I was able to confirm by dropping the tray before it was able to thaw. You could confirm that in your unit by injecting denatured alcohol into the tray when blockage is detected.
Monitoring correct operation can be done by observing water in the tray under the compressor immediately following a defrost cycle. The timer is located in the front upper section adjacent to the partition wall and has a round pin about 3/8" diameter, is flush with the surface and with a flat blade screwdriver can only be rotated clockwise. (I marked mine with a dot of paint to help.) It will click at a certain point and the compressor will shut off, if running, and will last about 20min +/- at which time liquid will (should) flow into the tray. (You may notice an orange glow in the top of the freezer section at the beginning of the cylce...Do not stick you fingers up there (like I did once), this is the heater element identical to an electric stove or oven which de-ices the coil.
As I mentioned in my earlier post a method of determining a free flowing hose can be confirmed by looking for some movement of the water sitting in the hose when quickly closing the door.
I will post my repair when I do it and take some pictures, although I doubt if I will be able to report any long term results as I plan to sell it. I hope this is of some help!:)
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Please let me know if you guys know of an expert tech to resolve this issue for me.
Thank you.
Rag
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It's better to open it and inspect what is blocking the tube.
Gene.
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Hi Gene,
Thank you for the info. Before I get someone to come and do this, I like to complete my exercise.
Please let me know if the drain tube should have anything blocking on the EVAPORATOR (top of freezer) side. Should I be able to blow air or run a wire unobstructed through the drain tube from the pan(compressor side) to the EVAPORATOR side? Something hard seems to be blocking on the EVAPORATOR side of the tube - I don't know if I should poke it hard to make an opening (the unit has been unplugged and left open for about 10 days).
Thank you.
Ragsj
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Hi Rag, GE had designed a special icing kit to fix this problem with refrigerators similar to yours. That's the best solution in such situation. Before you will order it, read the installation instructions attached to this reply. It will help you to determine if you are capable to do this job. - The icing kit Part number: WR49X10021
Gene.
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So i was able to pull out the tray on top and access the drain tube. There was no blocks/clog except just dirty pipe and some stagnating water. I sent a cable wire through the tube and on the freezer side I could feel a HARD BLOCK (inside the freezer box/compartment), softly pushing it tells me if I push hard I might break something. The wire is going for about a foot and then get stuck. Question: Should the wire go iinside the drain tube unblocked? Should I put more pressure and "break" the block- I'm not even sure it is a block or not, may be it was deisgned that way.Here is the photo ( http://dl.dropbox.com/u/6849033...012-04-15%2013.45.52.jpg) of the top area and drain tube (pulled up to clean). BTW, when I blow hard into the tube air doesn't move through the other side. If I push water with bleech with a medicine injector it seems to go somewhere with some amount (2/3 of the tube) stays in the tube - it never overflows...puzzling where the water is going (inside the freezer section). I'm waiting for responses to continue (fridge sitting unplugged for a week), doors open top removed....I doubt any ice is still there clogging anything.
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I read all your replies. I left the fridge completely unplugged for a week. I still see some water sitting in the drain tube. That remaining water can't come out as the tube is bent like an arch and there are things holding the tube down - so not possible to lift the tube to get all the water out to the tray.
I still haven't figured out how to reach inside the drain tube from the drain tray side. I need to figure out what things can be removed to pull things out for servicing (as mentioned in some responses). If I could only reach the tube end to put something to suck the water out or put a wire or somethng to clean the tube, I would be ready to plug the unit and see if the problem goes away.
I'm not a handyman or electrician kind of person to understand everything. But want to try this out myself as it seems like warranty technician may drag it with several trips.
Would appreciate some clear (laymans term) instructions on how to reach the drain tube from the drain tray side and clean it.
BTW, as this is a built-in unit, not sure what is in the "back" to reach and clean. It is all in the top.
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Originally Posted by: BobJH  ...Fortunately my problem has been handled by the warranty company replacing my unit, finally:)! (At a retail price of $8,000 I'm glad they paid for it:eek:!)...
...Gene I question the likelyhood of dust being drawn into the drain tube when it is constantly full of water (or ice at times) as it forms a type of plumbing "P-trap" to prevent chilled air from escaping the freezer compartment... You are very lucky they did it for you. I use to work for a few home warranty companies and I know they will fight very hard not to replace such expensive products. My recommendations to Rag based on my experience which definitely does not cover all possible scenarios. Keep us posted if you'll find the solution for your old fridge please. Gene.
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