|
|
The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door. Model's part list: http://www.**********.com/Model...=GE&Type=&Mark=0Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse. $3 at Radio Shack for 4 pieces. There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy: 1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation. 2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave. "Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319 under: http://www.**********.com/xq/as...tDetail.htm?SourceCode=1 3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation. 1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly. 4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C. 4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.
|
|
|
The GE tech came and replaced the flame thermostat (fuse) and it works perfectly. The problem comes from using the timer, but not pushing the timer button. It works like its cooking and with nothing in the oven, it gets too hot for the thermostat wich opens up. Make sure its actully in "timer" mode or keep something in the oven (like a bowl of water) to absorb the heat.
There was no charge for the service because the oven is under one year old.
|
|
|
Changed the thermostat/flame sensor, works perfect now.
|
|
|
Thanks a lot.
|
|
|
There is no information available for it other than what's on the part itself. I know this little thing should not cost $24 (GE charges $26.75 by the way) but that's GE for you. Sorry.
|
|
|
That looks exactly like it. How do we find out the electrical characteristics?
Is there the same part offered at the electronic places like Newark Electronics, Mouser, etc?
|
|
|
#61 thermostat works as a thermal cut-off (sort of like a fuse). Cheetham is talking about the same exact component. If it's open, it's bad. Sounds like you found the source of the problem. - Replacement thermostat (click to see photos and place order if needed)
|
|
|
I have the same problem for the second time. GE came right away to fix it. There is a thermostat (fuse) where you said. The repair man left me the old fuse and I cannot find the PN on the web yet. The Package is marked GE "W327X10195 THERMOSTAT MALAYSIA NG1". ALSO "GEAPPLIANCES.COM". He said it happens when people use it as a timer and set it to cook instead. The whole unit overheats and the fuse blows. There's no reset. You have to replace the fuse. He couldn't give any extras.
Let me know if you can find a better source.
|
|
|
I can't find the schematic. Today I did some power tracing, I've got power comming into the unit. I traced it to some sort of relay at the base just below the toutch panel, it's good. From there I traced it back up to a transformer which I found is not working, from there I further traced power to some type of switch that is I believe there for thermal protection of the unit, the switch is open and power stops there. The switch is on the top left side of the oven, there is a small hole in the oven that the switch covers.
This is not a counter top oven but an over the range type with exhaust vent so I'm sure it needs this type of protection.
Looking at the expolded diagram on one of the similar models it identifies it as part # 61 thermostat, another similar model it's a flame sensor, mine looks like the flame sensor. Is the thermostat a safety device?
|
|
|
So you're saying the fuse checks out ok and the outlet has 110 volts, but the microwave is completely dead? There is a wiring diagram inside the microwave. Post it here if you have a scanner or fax it to me at 626-609-2250 and I'll take a look.
|
