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Front Door Boot Gasket - GE
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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Friday, October 18, 2013 11:38:02 AM(UTC)
I have a GE Front Load Washer that the Rubber Gasket was ripped and had a hole. Thus it leaked, I was going to order a replacement Part. $125-$165 and 2-3hrs of dismantle/replace/etc. etc.etc. Easy fix....PVC Rubber Cement.....I applied several applications let dry re-applied, let dry did this three days....I've been washing clothes now for a month straight and no leaks!!!! I will re-apply once a week and let dry for a couple of days......$5.99 or $125? Called a appliance repair man and he wanted $80 plus the part.....Hmmmmmm no thanks! Just a heads up for those with patience and to think out of the box.:D :D :D :D
Wednesday, September 18, 2013 5:21:42 AM(UTC)
Guys - Using this forum, i was able to buy the part from this site and install it in a couple hours and i thank you a tremendous amount.
I'm a first timer, takign the boot seal off was easy, getting it back on was the challenge for me. It took me 2 times, but i eventually got it. I'd recommend taking pictures of how the boot seal is currently on before you take it off.
Wednesday, August 31, 2011 10:55:50 AM(UTC)
This repair is easy, if a bit annoying. It took me about 1.5 hours. Taking everything apart was simple. Installing the boot itself had 3 annoying steps figuring out how to get the boot onto the drum, figuring out how to get the little spray thing into the hole, and stretching the spring-loaded clamp onto the boot.
Anyone with a bit of strength, a rudimentary mechanical sense, and the right tools, can do this without any problem. I removed the lower concrete counterbalance for access to the inner clamp.
Tuesday, January 25, 2011 6:17:14 PM(UTC)
I actually reused my gasket because it wasn't the problem. After further inspection, I discovered the water inlet pipe had a crack in the bottom of it, where it connects to the soap dispenser. With the boot still off, I plugged the other end of the pipe with a bag and rubberband. Poured a little water in and it dripped out the crack, ran along the counterweight and onto the lower panel.
Ordered a new pipe and seal, sanded the rust spots away and painted the bare metal. Reassembled and it's ready to go. The water inlet pipe was backordered for a while. I wonder if this happens a lot?
Thanks to the forum for the descriptive instructions. And it's a lot faster to remove the counterweight. Just have pieces of tape for the nuts when you re-assemble.
Tuesday, January 25, 2011 2:54:01 PM(UTC)
I totally agree with ksisco.. I just dismantled my machine in the garage and after looking at it, i will save myself some pain by removing the front and also maybe the concrete counter-weight... I am ordering my boot and will be installing it soon.
Thursday, November 18, 2010 7:08:04 PM(UTC)
I'm new to the forum and share the same problem. My ge model uses this same gasket. My mother noticed some water on the floor so I investigated. It had been dripping for a while by the looks of all the rust.
The boot gasket doesn't appear to have any rips/tears. The drain holes at the bottom of the gasket had lint and other debris in them. I removed the gasket to clean it all out. There was also a little lint in the holes of the tub that the gasket connects to. Cleaned all that.
Here's my question. Since I can't find a rip in the gasket, is it possible for water to leak out if the drain holes are clogged? I'm thinking the outer clamp wasn't tight enough perhaps? The water leak was at the center of the machine. The water would dribble down the concrete piece below the gasket and behind the lower trim panel, rusting all the metal.
Can I reuse that gasket?
Sunday, November 14, 2010 5:35:37 PM(UTC)
Thanks ksisco, this worked out great. Having such a hardtime putting the seal on I took off the TOP, CONTROL PANEL, FRONT and the BOTTOM and since you have removed the front BOTTOM cover go ahead and clean out the "CLEAN PUMP FILTER". Search youtube for "Front Load Washer Troubleshooting - Clean Pump Filter" video.
GE Model: WCVH6260FWW
Originally Posted by: ksisco
After reading the posts about the common man replacing the gasket I felt I could do it. After removing the old and about 20 min into putting in the old, I gave up. I dont know how you can get that gasket on with the front of the machine on, so I took the entire front of my machine off as well as the top. It took about 5 min and Within 10 min I had the gasket on with the help of my wife's hands to hold the top portion after I got it started. **NOTE: when you take your control panel off and unplug the 9 number plugs, number them so there is no mistake to where they go when its time to reinstall it. Then I put the front and top back on and the front portion of the gasket was pretty easy too. Dont pay $125 + for someone to replace this.
Sunday, February 21, 2010 8:05:37 PM(UTC)
I've only done mine 1 time and it wasn't too bad. Make sure on the tub side of the boot that you pick the right groove. For a minute I thought the boot was a bit too big then I discovered that it wasn't in the right groove. I didn't have it on the tub far enough. Hope this makes sense. Boot has drain holes in it so they need to be on the bottom. What are you having trouble with or are you just getting info beforehand? thanks and glad to help, Rev
Sunday, February 21, 2010 9:35:33 AM(UTC)
I have a GE Front Load Washer and I'm having trouble installing the new boot, seems like a bit of a tough task. Any hints, tips, etc.?
Sunday, December 27, 2009 1:22:55 PM(UTC)
Thank you for the advice, Gene!
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