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It doesn't have a glass door, unfortunately. I distinctly remember listening to it over the 10 years we've had it, hearing it run and every few minutes, it would stop, and restart itself. I was ASSUMING it reversed direction like the washer does, to keep the tumbling clothes separated and from locking themselves in a pattern and hindering their cleaning action. At least, that's what I assume the purpose is with the washer. I assumed the same for the dryer. Since the exhaust vent is outside, I can hear the whine of the dryer from several places when windows are open and I hear the whine stop every few minutes and restart. Again, assuming it was reversing, like the washer. Since we bought the pair used from the local Sears, Roebuck, we didn't get manuals. Maybe I was hearing things all these years...?! Well, like I said, it runs great since my mtce on it and I won't worry about it. If you should come up with some info on it's actual reversing, please pass it along. Thanks again, for your help. It's been very profitable.
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I can honestly say I have not heard of this model dryer reversing itself, nor any other dryer reversing. Is this in the owners manual that says it reverses. Does this dryer have a glass door that lets you watch the drum turn?
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The dryer continues to run fine since my maintenance project on it. Thanks again for your help. One thing I've noticed, almost right from the restart, but really didn't pay attention to it. Ever since I got it back together and it's been running nice and quiet, I noticed it no longer reverses direction (like the front load washer does) like it used to before I had it apart. What would I have done that would have interupted its reversing? The only thing I did around the motor was remove and reinstall the belt when I removed the drum. I told you I had taken a can of air and "defuzzed" the motor and its surrounding parts and vacuumed the entire inside of the cabinet. I only disconnected the light and door switch wires when I removed the front panel. I marked each and reconnected them exactly as they were. Any ideas what might have changed? Did I bump something on the motor that overrides the reversing sequence? I don't remember the duration between reversing but it wasn't more than a couple of minutes. I stood in front of it today and it ran probably 4 minutes and no reverse. It runs fine without reversing but it was designed to reverse, so I'd like to correct what I might have changed...any suggestions?
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Thanks for the feedback, wish everyone was as appreciative :)
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abadfish66: just to give you some feedback. Finally able to tackle the dryer project. The rear bearing was so bad, couldn't get it to release. Unscrewed the bearing plate from the dryer back and removed the drum, no problem. Very filthy inside the cabinet. Vacuumed everything, used canned air to defuzz the motor. Oiled the belt guide roller axles as they were dry. Installed the new bearing with generous lube. Found we actually had a light for the interior, replaced the bulb for a bonus benefit of the project. Tackled the felt ring last. Not a real big deal. Took the dryer front to the open garage and used an old toothbrush and acetone to remove the glue residue after putty-knifing the old felt ring off. The old upper support felt pad was missing two of the three plastic bearings, the remnants of which were on the bottom of the cabinet. Thoroughly vacuumed all air passages I could get to removing gobs of lint from the air duct just under the filter. All back together and running famously! Thank you very much for your advise and to Appliance Parts Pros, all parts fit just right. That doesn't happen too often these days! Regards, RogerB Southern Colorado
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Your welcome, by the way, you don't have to remove the drum or belt to replace the rear bearing. Remove the front and top cover, pull the drum out of the cabinet just far enough to be able to reach the rear of the drum, take off the old broken bearing, and slide the new one back on. When you get to that point let me know if you need help...
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abadfish66, thank you for your reply. I mentioned, I think, that I opened the top of the dryer to observe its operation and noticed that the felt bearing pad was missing one of the plastic bearing pads. I recall that the other two and the pad looked rusty. That may be the source after all. I wasn't aware that the pad was accessible to the tumbling clothes.
I just went downstairs and looked at the dryer. I felt around the inner lip of the drum and I could feel the pad. As an experiment, I took a white paper towel, folded it, and stuck the edge in the gap between the dryer front piece and the drum. I then slid the towel around the circumference of the drum, part way. A tan powdery mark was on the towel! So as the clothes tumble, especially collar tips, can poke their way into that gap? Wouldn't have thought that could happen. Learned something new, thanks!
I will still check the vent pipe for any lint obstruction and I will also check the outlet temp with a thermometer just to be sure. I intend to do some long-needed maintenance to the dryer anyway, I'm just wanting to proceed correctly. As a long-time mechanic and fix-it guy, I don't think there are any real obstacles, the dryer seems fairly straight forward as far as accessibility. The front looks to be held on fairly simply by screws and clips. My real concern is the peeled and discolored paint on the back of the inside of the drum. I also need to replace the rear bearing as it has been squeaking this last year or so and demands a regular drop of light oil weekly. Figure to remove the front of the dryer and remove the drum and give the inside a general cleaning and replace the rear bearing and the front felt bearing pad. If the t-stat is ok, I won't bother replacing it. Will the drive belt that goes around the outside of the drum pose any problem repositioning the drum back into the cabinet?
Thanks for your timely, experienced post! Much appreciated.
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I have used a GE dryer for some time. I found if you put too much clothes in it, the back wall of the dryer will overheat and burn the clothes. I had a good winter coat till the dryer melted the plastic zipper due to this.
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Did not know it was a front load washer, here's the deal, I have been fixing ge appliances for 8 years, and never have a overheating issue that causes discoloring of clothe, there is a protection device in there that will open up and kill the power if it does infact overheat, so here is what to look for next. Over time, the moisture from your clothe will create some rust to form in the front lip of the dryer drum, and that front lip rides on white felt, also known as the front bearing surface or slide. That rust will transfer to the felt and discolor the felt. Now anything that hits that felt as the drum goes around will get stained the tan color you are talking about. You will need to remove the front of the dryer to access the felt and verify what I am telling you. It is very easy to replace, and rather inexpensive. There of coarse is the small possibility of what you think it may be, but in my 8 years experiance, that is not the cause. So, if you need instruction on how to remove the front of the dryer let me know, it is very easy, and you will see what I am talking about
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