|
|
What qtip said.
|
|
|
yep go ahead and replace that thermal fuse
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: magician59  I know you did some continuity checking: But there are three heat control safety components in series with the burner assembly. These are the hi-limit thermostat; the operating thermostat (that's the one with two larger and two smaller wires attached to it); and the thermal fuse. Did you find continuity in all three of these? Also: does your dryer have a heat level selector switch? I checked the two (Im assuming high and operating thermostats) .They are next to each other. One mounted close to the burrner tube and one mounted about a half inch off the burner tube. They had continuity. And there is one more on the exhaust tube next to the thermal fuse. It has four wires all the same size. 2 purple and 1 red and 1 red/white. I checked continuity across like colors and it checked out I could have sworn I checked the thermal fuse earlier but its not showing cotinuity. And yes the dryer has a temperature switch. Low-Medium/High-High. 3 positions. Would a bad thermal fuse not allow the igniter to glow and start the burner process??
|
|
|
I know you did some continuity checking: But there are three heat control safety components in series with the burner assembly. These are the hi-limit thermostat; the operating thermostat (that's the one with two larger and two smaller wires attached to it); and the thermal fuse. Did you find continuity in all three of these? Also: does your dryer have a heat level selector switch?
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: magician59 If there's no ignitor glow, it's either bad, or not receiving voltage. There should be 120VAC at the ignitor. When the ignitor glows, the radient sensor allows a signal to activate the coils, which work as a safety pair to open the gas flow into the burner. That's why you don't smell gas. I unpluged the 2 prong conector to the igniter. There is no power coming through the wires to the igniter. Either with the dryer running or not running. The igniter reads 61 Ohms . And the Flame sensor has continuity.
|
|
|
I will check and respond. Thanks
|
|
|
If there's no ignitor glow, it's either bad, or not receiving voltage. There should be 120VAC at the ignitor. When the ignitor glows, the radient sensor allows a signal to activate the coils, which work as a safety pair to open the gas flow into the burner. That's why you don't smell gas.
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: magician59 Does the ignitor glow? Now that I have the dryer apart with the drum out the igniter doesnt click or glow. When I run the dryer on high heat the igniter doesnt click or glow and I dont hear or smell any gas coming from the gas part with the regulator and coils on it. What makes the gas open for ignition??
|
|
|
Does the ignitor glow?
|
|
|
Dryer will not realse gas for ignition. I can hear the ignitor trying to ignite the gas but there is no gas being released at the solinoid valve?? All other functions work properley. Motor/Drum spins . Timer works. Interior Light Works. Just wont release and ignite gas.
My model number will not will not come up in the break down diagrams, but I was able to locate some of the parts to check continuity and resistance.
1. Thermal fuse- 0 Ohms- good
2. Cycling Thermostat ?? I think its next to the thermal fuse (4 wires -1 red, 1 red/white and 2 purple) I checked resistance across like colors= 0 Ohms ?????
3. Gas valve coils- All resistance checked out except the 2 terminal coil was not within + or - 50 Ohms. Specs called for 1220 and it read 1300 Ohms.
4. Flame Sensor read - 6 Ohms ?
5. Igniter read - 615 Ohms ?
|
