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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)
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[quote=kc135guy;21565]Thanks for the response. There is a pink wire that goes on as well for a total of 4 wires left. None of the orange wires have a stripe, just different colored lettering. The two with orange and black seem identical. Also, the top picture was the old one and I think the pink and orange one on the left were in the wrong place. Chris[/quote]
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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Sunday, December 28, 2008 2:04:00 PM(UTC)
very easy and simple to do. Most of the time (1 hour) was consumed removing the stove from the countertop. If you know how to unplug and plug wires, its a simple task taking no more then 2 hours total. Make sure you take pictures before you begin, so you remember what goes where if your memory is failing like mine. :) Its well worth doing yourself to save some bucks. The switch is not cheap either.
Sunday, December 28, 2008 1:27:29 PM(UTC)
I have an 8 year old KitchenAid Cooktop, KECC567HSS and the left front (dual) burner is inoperative. It started to act up a few months ago and I suspected the Infinite Switch which is part #8203534.
I have never changed one of these and feel comfortable giving it a try. I did see in another thread that the directions for installing the swith talk about using provided jumper wires if the new switch wire lenght is too short which requires a "heat gun".
How easy is it to install an infinite switch? How long would it take a professional and what would one charge?
Before I order the part......................Thank you!:D
Sunday, July 27, 2008 4:12:40 PM(UTC)
Here are some pictures of before/after of the infinite switch for Kitchenaid kitchenaid KECC560BBL2 stovetop. I hope this helps you.
If you need more pics, let me know...:)
Originally Posted by: kc135guy
Maybe Gene can help me out.
I have an old infinite switch that doesn't match exactly with the new infinite switch. Pix attached.
I figured out the pink wire (power), the black and violet I already connected, but there are 3 orange that I can't figure out where they go.
If anyone can help out, please call me at 785-478-1286 or 785-220-3940. Or I can call you - no problem.
Monday, May 12, 2008 5:00:26 PM(UTC)
I found the
for the stove and the
for this switch.
Monday, May 12, 2008 4:55:01 PM(UTC)
If you can take pictures of this heating element, shown all terminals with wires and post them, it might help. Also try to read all white and black letters on the wires and post it too.
Sunday, May 11, 2008 6:13:03 PM(UTC)
We bought the house 5 years ago and there wasn't any paperwork with the appliances. I found some information online, but not a wiring diagram.
The switch is different from the other 3, this was blue the other three were white. When I took the part out, I thought the wires would go exactly the way they came off, but then I saw instruction sheet placed the wires somewhere else on the switch.
Sunday, May 11, 2008 6:08:58 PM(UTC)
Gene & Mr Fixall,
The model # is KECC502GBT3, the burner is the LF double burner. The kitchenaid part # was 3188516 which is now the whirlpool 8203534.
I will trace the wires. I can take more pictures also and repost them.
The wires have some markings - one orange has white letters, then two oranges have black letters. Am I looking for something specific on the wires?
Any idea about that pink wire? The two wires that go into the unit are black and pink.
You guys are really helping me out. Needless to say, I have never worked on a cooktop before and have limited knowledge of electrical work.
Concerning the heat element - I don't really understand that question.
Thanks for giving me some insight already.
Sunday, May 11, 2008 5:14:18 PM(UTC)
do you have the wiring diagram that came with stove? ,i assume this original switch is different from the rest of the switches oterwise you would have compared them.
Sunday, May 11, 2008 2:47:23 PM(UTC)
So far I can tell you that the terminals L1 & L2 are for incoming power, the terminals H1a & H1b are for two coils on the dual heat element and the terminal H2 is for a common terminal on the dual heat element, and the P terminal is for the indicator light.
What is the complete model number of the unit?
What burner this switch is for and what kind of the heat element it has?
Check if there is any marks on the wires and trace all wires. Post which wire where goes.
Sunday, May 11, 2008 4:53:43 AM(UTC)
No - (and I even sat there and thought about taking a picture before I pulled wires) but the 2nd picture (original switch) was my best guess, unfortunately when I tried to turn it on, the breaker blew. So the 2nd picture is incorrect, I am pretty sure the black, violet, and 2 orange black wires were correct. I might have switched the pink and orange/white.
Thanks for helping -
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