|
|
I hear ya. People don't have a problem buying something new but when repairs are needed (and if mechanical it will need service eventually) they will choose the cheapest parts and minimal service required. The repair industry is a tough one and to be successful it helps to be a people person when explaining their options. I do some works on cars, outboards and small engines and I tell people that I would prefer they pay a couple bucks more for quality parts. That way, they won't be seeing me anytime soon. I hear the sweet sound of the washing machine in the backgroud. No more leaks and we don't have to turn the TV up while it's running. Thanks again for your help!!
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: Lawnboy  Okay, problem solved. I ended up cutting the old bearing off with a dremel cutting tool. I would not recommend this approach as it is time consuming. It doesn’t look like you had much choice. Quote:
In the "lessons learned"" section I would advise when replacing the tub seal you take the next step and replace the bearing while the outer tub is already out.
When I was in the field that was always part of the job. No, the customer wasn’t thrilled about paying the extra coin for the bearing. But you can better believe they would have been pissed if I had to go back out and tear into the washer again because I didn’t replace it to begin with. Quote:
The brake was full of water and appears to be working fine after drying out Thanks for all the help!!
Just a heads up, That break package does have lubrication in it. You don’t need to pull the brake apart to do it. about a tablespoon of 90 weight oil is all it needs.
|
|
|
Okay, problem solved. I ended up cutting the old bearing off with a dremel cutting tool. I would not recommend this approach as it is time consuming. In the "lessons learned"" section I would advise when replacing the tub seal you take the next step and replace the bearing while the outer tub is already out. The brake was full of water and appears to be working fine after drying out Thanks for all the help!!
|
|
|
Thanks for sticking with me on this one. I tried an air hammer and cutting tool to no avail. Just dulled the tool. I used a deep socket on the shaft and hit it with a hammer a few times, didn't budge. I am heading to home depot to buy a dremel drill and a cutting tool to see if can cut it off. If that doesnt work, I will be asking you for instructions on how to remove the transmission. You know, this is discouraging as I can usually fix most things. The tub and bearing seals were a piece of cake compared to this. I was told that the lower bearing is not difficult to replace. I have rebuilt engines in less time than I have spent on this washer.
|
|
|
The shaft is part of the gear case so you have to pull the
outer tub to get that out. I ran into this before
but I cant remember exactly what I did to get the bearing out.
I think in one case I had to pull the gear case out anyway,
so I just gave the gear case a few good tugs and managed to break
it loose. But yours may be stuck on shaft tighter than that one was.
Maybe setting up an impact or vibration on the bearing itself
will break its grip. You might be able to take a piece of pipe
that would go around the shaft and have the end of the pipe
seat against the bearing itself, make sure its long enough to extend
past the transmission shaft to avoid damage to it, And set some
impact against the bearing itself to try and break its grip. Just be careful
not to damage anything on the transmission shaft.
Hope this helps.
|
|
|
I tried some heat, didn't work. Do you have any ideas that will get this bugger off? Do I have to take the shaft out? I am almost out of patience. I have to believe this is not an isolated problem. I have to take the wrench back today so the clock is ticking. Do you know if there is an on-line repair manual available? Thanks Originally Posted by: glen65 Just be careful where you apply heat. You could run the risk of
damaging an oil seal in the lower part of the gear case.
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: Lawnboy Yup, that's the wrench. I went against the experts advice and gave the brake a "whack" in the other direction. Came loose right away. Now, the next issue is the bearing is shot, but will not come off of the transmission shaft. There isn't any room to get behind it and pry it off and it is recessed in the transmission cover so I can't get anything on it to pull it free. Do you know if they make a special bearing puller for these? I am considering putting some heat to it. Thanks for all the help and I won't get an Amana!! Just be careful where you apply heat. You could run the risk of damaging an oil seal in the lower part of the gear case.
|
|
|
Wobbles all over the place as it is grinding. Some of the bearings are even flat.
|
|
|
at this point, can you tell if it turns freely and smoothly?
sorry, nevermind. You wrote that it's shot (I need to read slower).
|
|
|
Yup, that's the wrench. I went against the experts advice and gave the brake a "whack" in the other direction. Came loose right away. Now, the next issue is the bearing is shot, but will not come off of the transmission shaft. There isn't any room to get behind it and pry it off and it is recessed in the transmission cover so I can't get anything on it to pull it free. Do you know if they make a special bearing puller for these? I am considering putting some heat to it. Thanks for all the help and I won't get an Amana!!
|
