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Originally Posted by: TommyCee  OK Gene. I guess I’ll have to “rustle” the unit out of its nook.
APP’s price for the board seems reasonable and I certainly have appreciated your guidance in my troubleshooting.
Can you pals. confirm that Part number: AP2127302 is appropriate for the upper oven of GILBERTA? (Just wanna be sure before I order …) Sorry for the delay. Yes, this is the correct part number. Gene.
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OK Gene. I guess I’ll have to “rastle” the unit out of its nook.
APP’s price for the board seems reasonable and I certainly have appreciated your guidance in my troubleshooting.
Can you pls. confirm that Part number: AP2127302 is appropriate for the upper oven of GLEB27T8CBA? (Just wanna be sure before I order …)
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Quote:
...Are you saying I can’t access this board by removing the console above the upper oven?...
Unfortunately it's true. Gene.
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Thanks Gene. I wish the news were happier but at least we have a target.
You mentioned removing the oven. Ugghhh! Are you saying I can’t access this board by removing the console above the upper oven?
BTW, the Model # off the door jamb actually is: GLEB27T8CBA
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Sounds like the problem is a bad upper oven relay board (#81 on the diagram). The oven has to be removed from the cabinet in order to access the part. - The upper oven relay board Part number: AP2127302
Gene. P.S. You can not find the correct model number in any paperwork. Never ever. You should look for the name plate on the oven door frame. P.S.2 You have to report this issue to the site admin.
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OK, Gene – I pulled the upper-oven element and checked the impedance. It was right at 25ohms.
With the oven set in the baking mode, I measured 41.6VAC between the leads.
How does that grab you?
p.s1.
Regarding the model number, the “GLEB27T8AC” is exactly what I read on the original vendor invoice (May 2003), and as well from a table in Frigidaire’s “Built-In Ovens” brochure (January 2003). FYI, the oven unit cost $1199.\
p.s.2
Has anybody ever noticed that the up/down left/right cursor movement is DISABLED in the Quick Reply edit window? Makes editing a b&#$h.
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Pull out the Bake element, disconnect the wires and measure the resistance in the element. It suppose to be about 25 Ohms.
Check for 240 VAC between these wires while the control calls for Bake.
Post the results.
There is a missing letter between "A" & "C" in the model number you posted.
Gene.
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Gene,
Your points are duly noted.
I "get" that an ideal temp. check should be made @350F. It's still 30-40 degrees low.
When I ramp to 550F to attempt an adjustment (it must be @550F to enter the calibration mode), the window displays "35", which is consistent w/ what the manual says ("If the oven control has the original factory calibration, the display will read '00' ") This is residual from the last adjustment I made. But is thus seems that once you attempt a 35-degree increase, and it's still too cool, you're SOL. This surprises me; I would have thought you'd have more flexibility in the nudging.
But this really brings me back to my earlier point. I'm concerned with the capability to heat the oven, and wonder about the element itself.
As I said, the oven in question (which is used 95% of the time) seems to take a bit long to reach 550F. Set to 350F, it only reaches about 310-315F (and not real quickly). I’m beginning to suspect the element itself. I wonder if you agree w/ this suspicion, and whether you think a reasonable test might be to temporarily swap the lower oven’s element and see if it can get to the setpoint temp. (as a confirmation). Any thoughts?
In another post on Frigidaire ovens, I see that you advised that it might be the EOC (Electronic Oven Control). Does this sound more likely, especially when one (of the 2) oven heats fine? Also, I forgot to mention: the element never really gets red hot during the heating phase. Does this tell you anything?
I welcome your thoughts.
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Very important step is how you measure the oven temperature. As I said, you have to place a good (not a cheapest one) oven thermometer in the middle of the oven cavity and set the oven control for 350°F. Do not open the oven door for about 10 more minutes since the oven preheated. Read the temperature.
It does not matter how hot is the oven when you do the calibration. You do not have to heat it up to 550°F. Nobody cooks at such high temperature.
Gene.
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Thanks for your reply, Gene.
Actually (and this is a little embarrassing), since I posted my question I noticed on p.8 of the “Service Data Sheet” the instructions for “Adjusting Oven Temperature”. I see that indeed my “Step 4" was to press Cancel. (Actually, the procedure in the manual lists 5 steps, exactly as you posted.)
The important point is that, once the calibration is finished, the oven is shut down (not returned to baking mode).
So here’s where I am now: The oven in question (which is used 95% of the time) seems to take a bit long to reach 550F. But also, even with a 35 deg. nudge, it still seems to only be able to reach 510F or so. I’m beginning to suspect the element itself. I wonder if you agree w/ this suspicion, and whether you think a reasonable test might be to temporarily swap the lower oven’s element and see if it can get to 550F (as a confirmation). Any thoughts?
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