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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
ibdavid Posted: Tuesday, July 17, 2018 6:50:55 AM(UTC)
 
My now 13 year old range has been working the past 10 years due to Gene's advice and help.

Yesterday the range made a buzzing sound when attempting preheat.It never made it past 205. The cook top works, interior light works, and broiler element also works.

I tried to pull the bottom cover to inspect bake element and one screw is stripped. Will try ez out or dremel tonight.

Knowing the history is it more likely the clock / brain will also be bad again? Unlike last time (details above) the broiler element is still working.
Gene Posted: Friday, January 25, 2013 5:14:08 PM(UTC)
 
Hello David,

You have to remove the door from the oven first. Did you do it?

I hope the attached instructions will help.

Gene.
ibdavid Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 3:47:51 PM(UTC)
 
Well thanks to Gene I am still using my now 8 year old MER5755QAW. Recently one side of the door handle appeared to be loose. I started to take the door apart to investigate. I took off the top door trim piece and was able to remove the outer door glass. I then encountered the handle brackets (#14 04-Door / Drawer parts for Maytag MER5755QAW - AppliancePartsPros.com )which attach to the inner door behind the outer glass and use a screw that comes from behind and attaches the handle to the top trim piece. Upon investigating the hole in which the screw goes into the handle I discovered it was cracked. Several attempts with JB weld and other methods and unfortunately it looks like I will need to get a new handle. Worse the outer glass that I had removed successfully later shattered.

Ok so all that background to get to my problem. Although it is not logical I cannot figure out how to re-install the outer door glass. If I attach the handle brackets first I cannot put the glass in the door. I thought at first i could place the top edge of the glass into the groove for it on the underside of the top trim piece of the door and then "swing" the glass down to the bottom grooves in the lower part of the door. But it does not fit.
Of course if I put the glass in first then I cannot attach the handle brackets to the oven door. Specifically the screw from behind into the handle as it goes through the top trim piece and you cant put this piece on and later put the glass in.

Did I just somehow remove the outer door glass initially in the wrong way? As I cannot figure out how to put it back in. I looked at various videos on replacing the outer glass door but none of the ovens shown had these brackets.

Do i take one of the side pieces off the door ( #17 or 18) and slide the glass in from the side??

Also a side question does the outer door glass go in with the thermal tape at the top?
nswenson13 Posted: Thursday, January 7, 2010 1:57:27 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: ibdavid Go to Quoted Post
Hello,

I have an approximately 2.5 year old Maytag electric MER5755QAW. Two days ago my wife was baking and she gave quite a yelp when she saw a bright flash from the base of the oven and heard a quick buzzing humm sound. The oven's bake and broil elements no longer work. The cooktop, clock, control panel, and oven light all operate "normally".

I have tried to read several posts to try and figure out problem. It would be nice if just elements need to be replaced, but why would both not work? This leads me to think maybe problem is not elements, and maybe problem is thermal fuse??

My question is what do you think problem is and is it worth fixing? I would also be curious what I should expect to pay to have fixed if it is not something I can handle myself?

Thanks,
David:confused:

I have had the exact same issue with the exact same model, only black in color. I am wondering if you ever got a response or figured out. We are looking at replacing the circuit board and are wondering if it is worth it. What would you recommend we do?

Thank you!
Wdrob Posted: Tuesday, January 5, 2010 3:07:36 PM(UTC)
 
This was a great thread. I had the same problem last week; while cooking dinner I heard a buzz, pop from the stove and the lights flickered in the house. I checked the stove and it was no longer on.

After Reading this thread. I unplugged the stove!

First I replaced the bottom element by removing the racks and the two screws on the bottom cover plate at the back of the inside the oven. Next I removed the cover plate by lifting up on the sides. Once removed, the burner was clearly blown so I bought a new burner at the local Maytag store and installed it in about 20 mins.

However I still had no heat from the top or bottom element.

I then ordered a new control unit - Part Number 74009211

I found the control unit for various prices on the internet from 115 US to 225 CAD.

www.**************************.com seemed to be the cheapest, but I actually ordered it from a friend of a friend direct from the manufactor for the employee price of 88 CAD with tax and shipping.

Unscrewed the old control unit by removing the top cover at the back of the oven (use 1/4 socket) and then 4 phillips screws holding the unit in. Screwed the new unit in and then removed each of the wires one at time and pluging them into the new unit that was already attached.

Put the cover plate back on and then plugged the stove back in and everything was working fine.

Thanks again for previous threads! Saved myself a bundle. Sears wanted 80 CAD just to come out and diagnosis the problem before any parts and labour.

This was an easy job, even for a novice.
Gene Posted: Thursday, November 13, 2008 6:04:07 PM(UTC)
 
David,

I'm glad you were able to fix the oven. You can replace this indicator light and they both will work.

I'm volunteer on this nice forum as all other experts are. We just trying to help people like you are and our "pays" is your appreciation.

Gene.
ibdavid Posted: Thursday, November 13, 2008 5:49:45 PM(UTC)
 
Gene,
thanks for your reply. I cut back the two wires that would hav attache dto one of the leads to the light and I wrapped them in electrical tape. The oven appears to still work and the cooktop but neither the cooktop "on" or the "hot surface" indicators work. No big loss as I am just happy to have an oven again. Thanks for all your help. I hope "appliance parts pros" pays you!
Gene Posted: Thursday, November 13, 2008 4:30:36 PM(UTC)
 
It probably will work without this indicator light. At least you can try. Insulate all wires, using an electric tape and turn it on. This light is probably gone.

Gene.
ibdavid Posted: Thursday, November 13, 2008 2:53:53 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
David,

The clock is not too difficult to replace yourself. Remove the rear control panel cover to access the clock. Remove one wire at a time from the old clock and connect to the new one.

Nobody can tell you what else could be wrong with your range, but it is not very old and a new range will cost you much more than 160 bucks to fix this one.

Gene.


Gene,
Well I put the clock in. Tried the oven and lo and behold it lit the bake element and started to heat up. Then I did something incredibly stupid. I started to put the metal back panel bacl on without unplugging the oven.

There was a spark and when I checked out what happened it looks as though the lead that goes to the stove top "ON" indicator made contact with the back metal plate and soldered itself right to it.

I dont know if the oven still works because I have not plugged it back in. My question is can the oven work with that indicator light connection bypassed? What do I with the disconnected wire? Can I get the metal clip piece at a hardware store and reattach it?
ibdavid Posted: Monday, November 10, 2008 4:26:23 PM(UTC)
 
Gene, thanks so much for your guidance. I ordered the clock today. It's been a long time with no oven. I will post my results once I have the clock/cotrol board.