|
|
[COLOR="Blue"]Is that big of a variation possible[/COLOR]?
Has to be you read it so something is causing it.
Although they do not mention it the polarity of the meter leads may make a difference. I would check it both ways re: red lead on one test point and then the black lead on that test point.
[COLOR="Blue"]
675 would constitute a resistance of <1 m-ohms, correct??[/COLOR]
Yes it is less than one meg-ohm.
Perhaps try cleaning this area with ispropyl alcohol available at drug stores or an electronics contacts cleaner (non-residue type) and a toothbrush (be gentle). Do not reconnect till all the solvent has evaporated.
[COLOR="Blue"]Also, when it rains it pours. On my Whirlpool Duet Washer (GHW9100LW)[/COLOR]
I would start a new thread in the Washer Section to get info on this
Also do an advanced search "duet door seal" with the washer secxtion chosen.
|
| THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
Denman,
I believe it is the board.
But, just to confirm before I place the order:
Retested thermistor and moisture sensor and both passed.
This time when I tested the moisture sensor pins on the board, I pulled the board completely out, unplugging all the connections to the board itself. When I performed the tests yesterday, I had just unplugged the machine from the wall, and the appropriate wiring harness on the board.
Yesterday's test results on the 2000k=1.875
Today's test results on the 2000k setting=675
Is that big of a variation possible?
675 would constitute a resistance of <1 m-ohms, correct??
Also, when it rains it pours. On my Whirlpool Duet Washer (GHW9100LW) I have noticed water streaks on the front of the machine under the door. I assume this is the door seal. If so, is installing a new seal easy?
|
|
|
Still trying to find the problem, bobski. Have not replaced any parts, yet. The board for this unit costs about $160, so I am going to try denman's new reccomendations (thank you) before replacing. I will respond when I figure it out.
|
|
|
This is a long, long shot but I was looking up something else and noticed this for the newer 9250 unit. Perhaps your unit has this board so it may be worth trying this Page 5 Dryness Level Adjust.
|
| THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
[COLOR="Blue"]
Is it the machine control electronics board?[/COLOR]
Cannot say for sure but it is a possibility. I just hate guessing at this type of thing!!!
[COLOR="Blue"]What is it's cost?[/COLOR]
See Item 19 in Section 1 of the parts
[COLOR="Blue"]Should I replace the thermistor and moisture sensor first, before pulling the trigger on a new board?[/COLOR]
That is what they recommend.
I can see the thermistor going and causing low temperatures but by the sound of it your temps are good.
Could be a bad/intermittent connection somewhere in the moisture sensor circuit.
Basically it is just two parallel strips of metal, any moisture/dirt etc. between these strips creates a circuit path and a small current flows, the unit interprets this as wet clothes and continues to run. So if you have a bad connection, then the unit does not see any current flow and decides that the clothes are dry so ends the cycle. I am assuming that you ran the first part of the sensor test. Another way to do this would be to remove the plug for the sensor at the board. Put your meter on a high scale (20 Meg-ohms), should be an open. Then bridge the strips with your finger, you should see some resistance. Then wiggle the various connections in the circuit re: at the strip and plug, if you see the meter show an open (infinite ohms) that is where the problem could be.
[COLOR="Blue"]
What setting should I put it on to best confirm that I have a >1 MQ reading when testing moisture sensor on board?[/COLOR]
Use the scale that is one higher than 1 meg-ohm. For instance my meter has a 2000 kil-ohm scale which is 2 Meg-ohms so that is the scale I would use.
The only other thing I can think of is if you ever used timed dry does it take about the same amount of time to dry a load. If it is longer then it would indicate an air flow or temperature problem.
I know this is probably something you cannot answer as I could not tell you how long it takes a normal load to dry in my unit. It is just something I never pay attention to.
|
| THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
Hi, Have you found the problem yet or replaced the board. I have the exact same problem and have tried every test. Although on my temp test I only got up to 150 and I never heard the limit switch kick in and turn the heat off.
Thanks
|
|
|
I have checked continuity/resistance of all the seemingly applicable components(moisture sensor, thermistor, thermal fuse, thermal cut-off,heater, and machine control electronics) associated with our problem of not being able to dry a normal load of clothes completely within one cycle's time.
-cabinet and ducts are lint free
-louvers open fully
-exhaust temp. and heater on/off are within the given parameters
Is it the machine control electronics board? What is it's cost? Should I replace the thermistor and moisture sensor first, before pulling the trigger on a new board? This is what the tech sheet seems to imply.
I am using a digital meter. What setting should I put it on to best confirm that I have a >1 MQ reading when testing moisture sensor on board? (I have a feeling that this board is costly!!)
|
|
|
Thank You, Denman. I Will Get To Work On It This Weekend.
|
|
|
|
| THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
Originally Posted by: fullmetalshovel  Model #GEW9200LWO
THE AIRFLOW SEEMS FINE, AND IS HOT WHEN EXITING THE DUCT OUTSIDE OF OUR HOUSE. WHAT SHOULD TEMP. AT EXHAUST IN REAR OF MACHINE BE? WHAT IS THE MOST ACCURATE WAY TO MEASURE THE TEMP.? *LOUVERS OPEN FULLY *WHEN I CLEANED THE LINT OUT OF THE CABINET, I REMOVED THE BLOWER MOTER COVER AND CLEANED IT AS WELL. THERE IS NO LINT IN MY MACHINE.
|
