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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Heiljaz Posted: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 3:31:04 PM(UTC)
 
I know this thread is old but thought I would reply just incase someone else has the issue. the click you hear is normal (most likely the heater relay) turning on and closing the circuit. I had the same problem and found that the motor relay had two bad solder connections (the smaller pins found on the backside of the board) They were actually cracked and I found that if I pushed down on the relay the connection was good. After re-soldering the connections it works flawlessly.

side note. I completely took the front panel and door assembly apart and cleaned it. A good idea since the channels were clogged with lint and debris that the lint filter failed to catch. Also you may want to replace the drum glide bearings if your dryer is pretty old. Probably why the solder connections broke from the excessive vibrations.
scottz29 Posted: Monday, March 7, 2011 3:25:47 PM(UTC)
 
Awesome... please do!
dki Posted: Monday, March 7, 2011 1:43:00 PM(UTC)
 
ordered the relay from Future electronics - www.futureelectronics.com

$1.85 plus $15.00 for shipping express (2-3 days). I'll let you know if it works!
scottz29 Posted: Monday, March 7, 2011 9:41:19 AM(UTC)
 
Cool thanks! Maybe that will prompt me to look too, and get that old mobo fixed so I have a backup when it dies again... Gotta love electronic appliances...
dki Posted: Monday, March 7, 2011 9:39:21 AM(UTC)
 
Oh - well - I will try to locate the relay and let you know if I find it. thanks for your help!
scottz29 Posted: Monday, March 7, 2011 9:37:57 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: dki Go to Quoted Post
Hi - I have the same exact problem and was wondering if the new realy worked?

Thanks!

Nope, didn't work. So, because we needed the dryer back in action quickly, I just ended up making a service call. As expected, guy just replaced the entire motherboard, and I was able to convince him to let me keep my original motherboard that he wanted to take back with him!!! (to repair and reuse no doubt)

Long story short, you'll need that exact relay. One day I'll look again, and try to fix my original motherboard...
dki Posted: Monday, March 7, 2011 9:31:09 AM(UTC)
 
Hi - I have the same exact problem and was wondering if the new realy worked?

Thanks!
scottz29 Posted: Sunday, December 20, 2009 1:19:31 PM(UTC)
 
One more update...
Put everything back together. Turned on and started the dryer. Nothing happened, as expected. Then, while I was cleaning up in the laundry room, the dryer clicked on suddenly, I sat there while it ran for a minute or two, then clicked off by itself. The display remains on and the digital timer still counts down.

I found a relay that's close, at Mouser:
832A-1C-F-S-12VDC Song Chuan General Purpose / Industrial Relays

This is a SPDT (double-throw) and the relay on the board is a SPNO (normally open). This shouldn't be a big deal as the other pole just won't be connected to anything. I may order this part and replace it just to see what happens. A $2.88 fix is better than a new $190 motherboard...
scottz29 Posted: Sunday, December 20, 2009 12:34:30 PM(UTC)
 
Update ...
Jumpered the pins to short the motor relay and the drum turns (despite the dryer turned off and/or start button pressed). Something not tripping the motor relay, or relay is bad.

Anybody?
scottz29 Posted: Sunday, December 20, 2009 11:57:21 AM(UTC)
 
Update...
I have the top off and much to my surprise, I found a schematic for the power board. I located the "click" from the start switch to the heater relay @ K101. The black wire from the heater relay connects to pin 3 of CM111, which runs through the motor relay @ K100, and to pin 3 on CM100.

I put my multimeter on those two pins that go across the motor relay, and when I press the start button, I don't get continuity. At first glance, this lead me to believe the motor relay at K100 is bad...however, I don't know what's upstream of the blue pin at K101 (the other pin for the heater relay). Something might be broken upstream which would cause a lack of current enough to trip the motor relay...

I'll try to get a scan of the schematic up in case that helps anybody...