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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman Posted: Saturday, December 19, 2009 1:37:54 AM(UTC)
 
Glad to hear you found the problem.

Thanks for getting back to us as it may help others with the same symptoms.

Have a Happy Holiday Season
denman
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pondmaster Posted: Friday, December 18, 2009 8:15:50 PM(UTC)
 
I want to thank you for your help. your advice proved invaluable !
it is now fixed and working great. like you suggested it was in the neutral line, a rat had chewed a Little more than half way through it. it was getting enough contact to make it hard to find but not enough to work properly.
again thank you very much the pondmaster :)
denman Posted: Friday, December 18, 2009 12:09:22 PM(UTC)
 
Looks OK to me, I would read that as 1,000 ohms.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
pondmaster Posted: Friday, December 18, 2009 8:35:53 AM(UTC)
 
thank you very much I am going to try that in a couple of hours and will let you know the results.
my only other concern is that I'm not sure that I tested the oven temp sensor correctly hear is what I did. after unplugging the stove I unplugged the oven temp sensor then I calibrated my OHMS meter after that I set my meter to the Rx10 setting. the OHMS reading I am getting is 100.
again thank you and I will let you know the results
the pondmaster
denman Posted: Friday, December 18, 2009 3:16:59 AM(UTC)
 
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for RF377PXGW models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208053291.pdf

a code kind of comes up the code is "PF" it only comes on kind of faint and then goes away so I took my multimeter and checked and it is getting 220 volts into the panel
PF is usually power failure.
When it comes to board, lights etc. it does not matter about the 220 as they all run off 120 (L1 to Neutral). Only the elements use the 220.

First check power into the unit
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
Or by the sound of it 220 and 110.
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip in the unit.

Does sound like a loose/bad comnnection somewhere is the Neutral line.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
pondmaster Posted: Friday, December 18, 2009 2:12:48 AM(UTC)
 
on my whirlpool range model number RF377PXGW the elect. control quit working no lights no clock no sound and no oven it is dead the burners work just fine so I bought a new elect control panel part number 6610156 and replaced it the new control is also not working except when I turn on one or two of the burners and they work just fine a code kind of comes up the code is "PF" it only comes on kind of faint and then goes away so I took my multimeter and checked and it is getting 220 volts into the panel I also checked everything I could think of the light switch, the oven door lock switch the oven temp sensor ( I'm not sure if i tested it right ) all of the wires seem good I just don't know what to do next I'm lost please help
thanks