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GE GDF540HGD2BB Heater
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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Friday, January 14, 2022 10:49:15 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: ohm
The way to test it is to disconnect the float switch harness, then see if it will heat in the test mode.
Wow! My hat is off and I bow down to you! * I've uninstalled this DW more times than I care to admit just to be stumped each time. With the correct Ohm / temp spec, that proved that the thermistor - although it reacts to temp change - is way out of spec. Obviously the DW thinks it's already quite hot so no need for the heater. The test mode pissed me off since it wasn't doing isolated tests, but when I disconnected the float switch and re did the heater test... 120 volts at the connector!
Time to order a float switch assembly! Thank you so much!
Thursday, January 13, 2022 2:33:57 PM(UTC)
Let me add in some more troubleshooting. I removed and tested the flood switch assembly. The flood switch circuit opens and closes when it goes from upside down and right side up. the Thermistor circuit started at 2.85 K Ohms and when placed in a cup of hot water went down to 2.4 K Ohms. I don't have the specific resistance values for temperature settings, but I would think this last component is also functioning properly. I don't know what else to test or replace at this point.
Thursday, January 13, 2022 1:31:33 PM(UTC)
GE dishwasher GDF540HGD2BB. Heater has stopped working. Heater itself measures 17 Ohms. Thermal Cut Off has continuity through it. I put the dishwasher into test mode, it shows no error codes. When I put it in test mode, heater test, there is no voltage at the board. Other test modes are testing good, recirculation pump, drain pump, water valve, soap dispenser test. Dishwasher will run each cycle just fine except that it can't heat the water mid cycle, and it doesn't dry the dishes at the end. A replacement main board operates the same. Did I get a defective replacement board, or does the test mode still rely on other auxiliary temperature sensors that are part of other circuits?
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