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About 30 years ago, you could buy the start switch separate from the motor. I used to save old motors just for the odd parts and I used to scrap old appliances for knobs, feet, and other parts that are still good. Almost every refrigerator and range go to the dump with working light bulbs. I'd pull them and use then till they burnt out.
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Thanks!
Playing with the overload switch, it went open again just handling it. Got it to close by rotating it around and installed and it is back to working.
Found a used motor connector on ebay that I can see has the switch in it. I'll order that. Sad they don't sell this part as a replacement part.
Tom
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That part is only available from the manufacturer with the motor. They are designed to cut out if the motor overheats or if the motor draws too many amps. I suspect that your board malfunction caused the motor to overheat. Those thermal switches are usually very durable and usually last the life of the motor. Since it reset, I'd put it back on the motor. They are meant to reset when the motor cools off. I'd put the dryer back together and make sure its got clear venting and good airflow to the outside vent. If it fails again, look around for a used motor like it and steal its thermal switch.
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Can't seem to find this part in any electronics catalog. Any suggestions?
Tom
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Whirlpool Duet WED9200SQ0
Went back up to fight with it some more after my family made fun on my dryer fighter (ala A Christmas Story furnace fighter dad).
Pulled out the small motor thermal switch that is apparently a separate piece. It ohmed open. Flipped it over and back and reohmed. Closed. WFT! Reinstall, it starts right up.
Gotta get a new thermal fuse for the motor. It says 0720T-O-D 20MCDLGA 028
Tom
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A model number or motor number would help.
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Spent the money for a new control board. Hooked it up. Inlet thermistor problem is gone, but motor doesn't turn on. When through troublehooting. THe resistance between the blue wire and copper wires on motor is infinite. Motor switch checks out (0 ohms) The infinite is between where the 2 copper wires come together and the blue wire before it goes to the switch. Any thoughts? Seems like I could jumper across, but I don't know the use of that terminal block. Is there some kind of fuse in there?
Thanks!
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Got a replacement inlet thermistor. Ohmed the same, and drier still as F25. So Driver control board would be next. Not sure if I'll bother at that price, or just get a new dryer.
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Whirlpool Duet electrical dryer.
Self diagnostics is reporting F25 (shorted). WHen I unplug the small red two wire connector, it reports F24 (Open).
I thought it was pretty straight forward, but thought to ohm the resistor. It's coming in at 65k, pretty much what you would expect for room temp per the diagnostic sheet that came in the cover.
Is it the control board, or should I start with the inlet thermistor? What is the inlet thermistor used for?
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