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I replaced two right side burners,
Rf and rr.
Also my two infinite switch were BLOWN out.
New dual is different.
Zero instructions (marcone supplied)
Had to call an old colleague to figure out wiring.
Well,,, it stopped tripping breaker as soon as I threw it on..BUT..
my elements won't glow at all. Zilch.
Indicator ring(circles switch) comes on...but no heat
Left burners both work properly.
Completely stuck.
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I replaced two right side burners,
Rf and rr.
Also my two infinite switch were BLOWN out.
New dual is different.
Zero instructions (marcone supplied)
Had to call an old colleague to figure out wiring.
Well,,, it stopped tripping breaker as soon as I threw it on..BUT..
my elements won't glow at all. Zilch.
Indicator ring(circles switch) comes on...but no heat
Left burners both work properly.
Completely stuck.
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Hi folks, well, I seem to have failed on the wiring.
CVE3400W – Jenn Aire Cook Top
Old switch: UTDP 411
New switch: 12002125
My new switch works and the element heats as it should. However, none of my other burners are now working, which I assume means they aren't getting power.
One thing different on my stove than what I'm reading is my main incoming hot power red line runs to this switch (LR) and is coupled with the red wire running to the next burner (LF) switch. They were both tied into the N position on the old switch.
The red line off the LR burner actually tied in through the RF burner switch.
So, my question is. Should I reconnect the two red lines I previously disconnected and hook them both into P2? That would leave the "2" position open on the new switch.
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Hi Charlie,
The Red wire (N terminal from L2 on the LF switch) should go to the P2.
The Red wire from the element goes to 2.
The Black wire (terminal 2) goes to P1.
The Orange wire (terminal 5) goes to S2.
The Violet wire (terminal 4) goes to 4a.
The Blue wire (terminal 3) goes to 4.
Gene. OK. Having just been through this puzzle and realizing that pictures are worth way more than 10,000 words, I thought I'd offer this. This is my experience from our JennAir CCE3400W cooktop and replacing the old style dual-burner switch with the new one that is commonly shipped as a replacement. [LIST=1] You *DO* have to split the joined red wires and add a female spade connnector to the cut wire.
Be aware that wire colors change over time. The 'Blue' wire had turned green, etc.
The symptom I had when I had done everything right EXCEPT split the red wire was all burners but the dual-burner worked. It got voltage but simply didn't heat up. Either ring.
[/LIST]
Everything now works as it should. I went ahead and replaced all 4 switches.
The aforementioned pics are attached. Hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Hi Charlie,
The Red wire (N terminal from L2 on the LF switch) should go to the P2.
The Red wire from the element goes to 2.
The Black wire (terminal 2) goes to P1.
The Orange wire (terminal 5) goes to S2.
The Violet wire (terminal 4) goes to 4a.
The Blue wire (terminal 3) goes to 4.
Gene. Hi Gene, I Have Jenn-air CVE3400W, The diagram and picture of the original switch provided by Charlie is similar to mine. I think I almost get it by following your instruction. One last question: Do I still need to jumper P1 and S1? your help is greatly appreciated. ( I wanna be sure before attaching the switch, I already destroyed one). PS: I asked a "service man" in our area, He never bothered to open the appliance and told me he will come back for the price of the switch and heating element which he suggested better buying new electric "cheaper". never came back been 5 months now. I tested, the element are good, original switch literally fractured.
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Had red wires reversed.. Are you sure the gray wire goes to s2. My gray wire is a compound connection going to LF switch L1 and out to main power black.
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Followed your wiring instructions to the letter and the switch blew up and blew my circuit breaker.
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Originally Posted by: mikecarter I have a Jenn Air CCE3531W and just replaced the dual infinite burner switch. The replacement part# is 12002125. The directions that came with the replacement were poor at best. After about 9 attempts I finally figured out the wiring. It is as follows:
Jumper wire supplied with new switch hooks to P1 and S1.
Double red wires must be separated and a new spade clip put on the one that comes from the inner RR burner. Put the red wire from LF switch on P2, and the red wire with the new spade clip on 2.
Gray wire from the burner on indicator light goes on S2.
Purple wire from outer part of burner goes to 4A.
Blue wire from outer part of burner goes to 4.
When completed, you will have to put a small piece of folded paper in the knob to shim it up to keep it from rubbing on the glass surface. What did you do with the single black wire? I am working on the same unit
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Hi Charlie,
The Red wire (N terminal from L2 on the LF switch) should go to the P2.
The Red wire from the element goes to 2.
The Black wire (terminal 2) goes to P1.
The Orange wire (terminal 5) goes to S2.
The Violet wire (terminal 4) goes to 4a.
The Blue wire (terminal 3) goes to 4.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Hi Charlie,
I would start from determining which wire where goes on the stove. Which wire is In and which wire is Out. The picture of the old switch you posted is not very clear.
Gene. Red cable goes to terminal N on the old switch Black Cable goes to terminal 2 on the old switch Orange cable goes to terminal 5 on the old switch Violet cable goes to terminal 4 on the old switch Blue cable goes to terminal 3 on the old switch I upload an image of the original circuit somewhere in this post you can see the circuit of the replacement switch, if you can't find it I'll scan it and upload it. thanks in advance for your help Charlie
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