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Originally Posted by: JohnCheyne  What is high? I never really understood how to use this ohm reader. I have the thermistor out and it is at room temp, reads 12.8 at 200k or 12.84 at 20k. the other settings do nothing. John, Depending on the meter, if you have a 10k setting(or in your case a 20k setting) the 1k or rx1 setting is too low to read the proper resistance and you won't register a reading. On the higher settings 100k or 200k, you slide the decimal point over one digit. We would expect to see 10-11K ohms resistance on the thermistor at room temp, but (70-77° F.) = 11.5–13.5 k ohms. is the recommended resistance range. A tad bit high, but within the resistance range, and should not affect the heat operation of the dryer, or cause the thermal fuse to open. But you may want to change it anyway.
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What is high? I never really understood how to use this ohm reader. I have the thermistor out and it is at room temp, reads 12.8 at 200k or 12.84 at 20k. the other settings do nothing.
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Originally Posted by: JohnCheyne Correct Model number is YWED8300SW2
Also, How do I check the thermistor. I have a reading of 12.8 on my meter when set at the 200k setting. Is that a good reading or what should it be? John, That's a tad bit high, should be 10K ohms at room temperature(77 dgrs.F.)see the attached tech sheet for testing and accessing the components needing to be checked.
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Correct Model number is YWED8300SW2
Also, How do I check the thermistor. I have a reading of 12.8 on my meter when set at the 200k setting. Is that a good reading or what should it be?
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Originally Posted by: JohnCheyne Everything appears to be fine as far as obstructions. After I replaced the thermal fuse, I went outside and the airflow was excellent coming out of the vent, but as we know the new thermal fuse blew again. The dryer did seem hotter than normal though. John, check and make sure the heater element and wiring aren't shorted to ground, and/or the gas valve isn't "sticking" open. Then replace the thermistor, as a possible issue. A proper model number would be helpful. Thanks,
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Everything appears to be fine as far as obstructions. After I replaced the thermal fuse, I went outside and the airflow was excellent coming out of the vent, but as we know the new thermal fuse blew again. The dryer did seem hotter than normal though.
Is there anything that would cause the thermal fuse to blow besides vent obstructions?
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Originally Posted by: JohnCheyne My dryer will not run. I get an F 01 code. I found reports that the circuit board might be fried. I checked it and it appeared too be good. I checked the thermal fuse and found it was defective. I replaced it and the dryer worked for 1 load and now the thermal fuse is blown again. Venting is good. Any thoughts? Perhaps I should have replaced both the thermal fuse and thermistor together? John, Check and make sure the duct under the lint filter and the blower housing and wheel are not blocked with lint or obstructions. Check the vent hood to make sure it's not blocked or damaged, etc. The thermal fuse is rated at 200 dgrs.F. and will "open" if there is an air flow problem. It's not "mandatory" to replace the thermistor when the thermal fuse fails, but it's a real good idea if you do. Of course, recheck the basics, lint filter clean, overloaded, etc.
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My dryer will not run. I get an F 01 code. I found reports that the circuit board might be fried. I checked it and it appeared too be good. I checked the thermal fuse and found it was defective. I replaced it and the dryer worked for 1 load and now the thermal fuse is blown again. Venting is good. Any thoughts? Perhaps I should have replaced both the thermal fuse and thermistor together?
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