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having a problem either with this web site or my Internet provider today. I have 2 computers that are having the exact same problems.....very slow responses and periodic repainting of the screen. This is why you see 3 replies that all look the same. Actually the last one I changed. I corrected it to say that I'd be unplugging the frig from wall outlet and I removed the OR unplug the icemaker wire harness.
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Thanks Gene. I now have what I need to proceed thanks to you and Dave H. Note that my red LED does not do anything when Im only holding the flapper closed (not holding in on the door light switch).
It's not blinking in that situation.....it's not lit at all. But I'm sure this is also an indication that there's something wrong with the optics. So my plan is to do exactly what Dave H did ie. I will unplug the frig from the wall outlet and reseat both of the optics boards connectors. Will leave it unplugged at least 5 minutes as Dave H did...but it will take more than that to expose and reseat the 2 optic boards. If I still get no solid red LED then I will buy the optics kit. Thanks again for your help. Larry (ghostrider)
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Thanks Gene. I now have what I need to proceed thanks to you and Dave H. Note that my red LED does not do anything when Im only holding the flapper closed (not holding in on the door light switch).
It's not blinking in that situation.....it's not lit at all. But I'm sure this is also an indication that there's something wrong with the optics. So my plan is to do exactly what Dave H did ie. I will unplug the icemaker wire harness or unplug the frig from the wall outlet and reseat both of the optics boards connectors. If I still get no solid red LED then I will buy the optics kit. Thanks again for your help. Larry (ghostrider)
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Thanks Gene. I now have what I need to proceed thanks to you and Dave H. Note that my red LED does not do anything when Im only holding the flapper closed (not holding in on the door light switch).
It's not blinking in that situation.....it's not lit at all. But I'm sure this is also an indication that there's something wrong with the optics. So my plan is to do exactly what Dave H did ie. I will unplug the icemaker wire harness or unplug the frig from the wall outlet and reseat both of the optics boards connectors. If I still get no solid red LED then I will buy the optics kit. Thanks again for your help. Larry (ghostrider)
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Thanks Dave exactly what I needed to know and a little more which is great !
The correction of the problem by disconnecting and reconnecting of the 2 IR laser circuit boards was most likely proof of a bad electrical connection in one of their connectors. I've seen this dozens of times when troubleshooting computers during the 28 yrs I was a computer network engineer. That is really good to know that you had this experience. Now instead of just yanking them out and going and buying new boards kit I will try this first and see. I will also disconnect the icemaker main wire harness for 5 minutes as well. Again I get no red LED under any condition. Note that my local appliance shop where I get parts says there's a $60 core charge on this IR board kit....so I would have had to remove the old boards before going to buy the new ones. Thanks again. Larry
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Hi Larry. Troubleshooting instructions can be different for different model numbers. For your model: a) open the freezer door and watch the status LED. If there are 2 pulses followed by a 1 second delay repeatedly, then b) press in the emitter flapper door to unblock the beam. Do not do anything else and watch the status LED. If the LED is On solid - there is nothing wrong with the optics. If the LED pulses followed by 1 second delay, the optics are faulty. The optic kit Part number: AP5956767
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I have a Kenmore 10656682501 and I think it uses the same sensors. Whirlpool W10757851 Ice Level Power Control Board Kit - AppliancePartsPros.comWhen I open the freezer door and do nothing (flap blocking beam) I get repeating 2-blinks, pause, 2-blinks, pause. Then if I hold down the door switch the LED goes off. If I open the door and hold in the flap (the beam un-interrupted) I get a solid red light. It's calling for ice and if the flapper is stuck closed it will drop ice even with the door open. If I then push in the door switch the LED is turned off. I had the same problem, I installed a new complete ice maker and it still didn't make ice. I was reluctant to spend a couple hundred on the sensors but went ahead with it. Waiting for my parts over the weekend I decided to see how easy it would be to remove the boards. After taking them both out and re-installing them, the darn thing started making ice. I was positive the flapper was not blocking the beam and I was getting the solid red LED with the flapper closed but it did not make ice until I started messing with the boards. It also could have been because I had the unit unplugged for a while. I later read a suggestion about unplugging it for at least 5 minutes. I put my old ice maker back in and now have a one week used ice maker and never been used 200 boards as spares. Oh well, my wife uses a lot of ice and it sucks having to bring ice home every couple days. Best of luck Larry, Dave
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The red LED on the right side flashes ONLY when the freezer door is opened ie. and not pressing the overhead light switch and when the left side plastic hinged flapper is popped out obstructing the laser beam as it's supposed to. It flashes a similar sequence as in the other posts ie. blink twice then 1 second pause then repeat cycle.
With freezer door open and while pressing the overhead switch and pressing the flapper (closing it to allow the laser beam to hit the receiver - simulating the freezer door being closed) my red LED is not lit solid or flashing.
So I need to know what the normal working conditions of this red LED are under these 2 scenarios:
1 - with freezer door open and not doing anything to any of the other switches or flaps
2 - with the freezer door open while pressing the overhead switch AND while pressing closed the hinged flapper to simulate the condition of the freezer door being closed. Should the red LED be on solid under this scenario ?
I read some of the posts on this forum regarding the Infrared laser components being the source of the icemaker problem (model GD5PHAXxxxx and/or model GD5YHAXxxxx). There were 2 in particular that stated that the red LED was flashing and the sequenced pattern....but I don't recall them getting into the exact details of the conditions of everything else surrounding this ie. only the freezer door opened, freezer door opened AND the laser beam blocked by the hinged flapper on the left AND the upper door switch (light & other control). And never saw any formal test procedure for this laser setup.
Other details:
The icemaker has already been replaced and no change in symptoms.
The water solenoid valve has been tested in the same manner as the other posts described ie. pull out the frig and swap the wires between the water dispensers water valve and the icemakers valve then press water dispensers paddle and water DID come out into the icemaker tray. So the water valve is definitely good and the line in not clogged.
So this is narrowed down to the 2 Infrared laser boards kit OR the main control board. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And if there is a formal test procedure on your web site please tell me where.
Thanks,
Larry (ghostrider)
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