As long as the control asks the machine to cool down and the electrical components of the compressor are functioning the compressor will run. It may be trying to compress air and be scorching hot but it will run.

The quick test on whether or not it has refrigerant to compress is to feel if the condenser is warm. That's the black metal grid on most refrigerators down near the compressor. Compressing refrigerant creates heat so looking for heat transfer into that condenser is a shortcut in diagnosing.

If the joint you are making is at the steel line (bigger line) be sure to use flux and higher silver solder. That can be a pain. You only get a few shots at it if you clog the Yoder loop end.
The capillary tube poses it's own fun but insert enough into the drier and it'll help keep from soldering it closed.

A trick that many of us do is to leave the capillary tube end of the dryer factory sealed and do the Yoder Loop end 1st. Since the Schrader valve will not be in it you can then power the compressor up and assuming you have an access valve open on the low side it should push air through the loop and condenser then out the open valve on the dryer. You know within a few seconds. That tells you that the steel line has not collapsed or gotten clogged during the solder process. It's better to find out if you clogged it then then it is after you put the cap tube in.

Have fun.

Thanks PNWDrew, I did tap the system and found a leak at the drier connection, I'm going to solder the fitting tomorrow, pump it down and see what happens, hopefully that's the only one.

I have a GE refrigerator that stopped cooling, the model number is GTS18ICMBRCC. Lights come on, both fans are running, compressor checks good 6.6, 6.5, 12.7, windings show no fault, replaced capacitor, relay, overload, thermos, double checked all for continuity, all checked good. What am I missing?