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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
ivyholly	Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 4:59:43 PM(UTC)
	Thanks for all of your help! The door switch ended up being fine. I was able to figure out which wire connected to it's proper spot. Once I tightened the ball bearing screws to stop a knock it works just fine now. Your information was helpful in my repair process.
brobriffin	Posted: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:37:33 AM(UTC)
	in the mean time try running a bypass or jumper wire across comm and NC and try to start it. Thus verifying your finding.
ivyholly	Posted: Monday, June 12, 2017 3:59:20 AM(UTC)
	I think that's it. I have continuity between the Com & NO prongs but not the Com & NC prongs. That was one that I wasn't sure how to test and just guessed. I can order a new one and see if that fixes the problem. I really appreciate the help that you've given.
brobriffin	Posted: Sunday, June 11, 2017 5:13:59 PM(UTC)
	I would check the door switch... it has two contacts and the closed position may be bad check it with the door closed you should have continuity between the common and NC prongs
ivyholly	Posted: Saturday, June 10, 2017 5:27:16 PM(UTC)
	I wasn't sure if I had looked at that one so went ahead and tested it. That one has continuity as well. Based on the diagrams, I've looked at fuse/switch numbers: 10, 15, 26, 33, & 36 if I'm reading them correctly.
brobriffin	Posted: Saturday, June 10, 2017 3:49:08 PM(UTC)
	Ok I noticed you have not addressed the thermal fuse on the back case of the dryer. Or you have not mentioned checking it yet. You spoke of the two on the heating element as well as the thermostat on the blower. I suspect the thermal fuse will be your issue. Please check it for continuity. Look at schematic 3 (cabnet and drum parts) Parts for Frigidaire FERB6600ES0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com This is part #36 Frigidaire 134120900 Thermal Limiter - AppliancePartsPros.com which has a video to to help you locate it Please test this part.
ivyholly	Posted: Saturday, June 10, 2017 5:08:01 AM(UTC)
	That makes sense. The start button has continuity when turned so that's not it either. Any other suggestions on what else I can double check?
brobriffin	Posted: Saturday, June 10, 2017 4:44:22 AM(UTC)
	Checking the start button. You should see continuity when the button is turned. If you get no reading when it is turned this is the part you need. Frigidaire 134398300 Start Switch - AppliancePartsPros.com
ivyholly	Posted: Friday, June 9, 2017 3:58:14 PM(UTC)
	Thanks for the reply! Both of the fuses on the heating element have continuity as does the fuse on the blower. However I can't get a reading on the Start switch. I double checked the switch associated with the temperature knob just to make sure I wasn't missing something and can't get a reading on that one either. Will these use a different setting on the multimeter than the X1k ohm setting? (And the setting knob switch is really complicated so I have no idea how to test anything on that one.) The door switch is also okay. Light goes on when the door opens.
brobriffin	Posted: Friday, June 9, 2017 6:25:16 AM(UTC)
	Not starting (when power is known to be good) is a symptom of 1st a blown thermal fuse also called a thermal limiter or 2nd bad door switch or 3rd bad start switch (built into timer). First of all check to see if the door switch has continuity when closed. Second check to see if all the wires were place back on the elements and thermostats and thermal cut in the right order and are seated properly. Especially check the thermal fuse (thermal limiter) on the back wall of the dryer near the terminal block to see if the wires are seated and if it has continuity.

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