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Thanks for all of your help! The door switch ended up being fine. I was able to figure out which wire connected to it's proper spot. Once I tightened the ball bearing screws to stop a knock it works just fine now. Your information was helpful in my repair process.
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in the mean time try running a bypass or jumper wire across comm and NC and try to start it. Thus verifying your finding.
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I think that's it. I have continuity between the Com & NO prongs but not the Com & NC prongs. That was one that I wasn't sure how to test and just guessed. I can order a new one and see if that fixes the problem. I really appreciate the help that you've given.
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I would check the door switch... it has two contacts and the closed position may be bad check it with the door closed you should have continuity between the common and NC prongs
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I wasn't sure if I had looked at that one so went ahead and tested it. That one has continuity as well. Based on the diagrams, I've looked at fuse/switch numbers: 10, 15, 26, 33, & 36 if I'm reading them correctly.
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That makes sense. The start button has continuity when turned so that's not it either. Any other suggestions on what else I can double check?
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Thanks for the reply! Both of the fuses on the heating element have continuity as does the fuse on the blower. However I can't get a reading on the Start switch. I double checked the switch associated with the temperature knob just to make sure I wasn't missing something and can't get a reading on that one either. Will these use a different setting on the multimeter than the X1k ohm setting? (And the setting knob switch is really complicated so I have no idea how to test anything on that one.)
The door switch is also okay. Light goes on when the door opens.
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Not starting (when power is known to be good) is a symptom of 1st a blown thermal fuse also called a thermal limiter or 2nd bad door switch or 3rd bad start switch (built into timer). First of all check to see if the door switch has continuity when closed. Second check to see if all the wires were place back on the elements and thermostats and thermal cut in the right order and are seated properly. Especially check the thermal fuse (thermal limiter) on the back wall of the dryer near the terminal block to see if the wires are seated and if it has continuity.
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