Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
t189dms Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 4:23:49 PM(UTC)
 
CitadelBlue please see my most recent post.
t189dms Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 4:21:00 PM(UTC)
 
Well, it's been over a year since I last posted about our icemaker issues. We decided back in July 2017 to forego any further parts replacement roulette and have been using old tried and true ice cube trays.

This evening while preparing dinner I heard an unusual sound and found the water supply to the ice maker had for some unknown reason decided to start running. Unfortunately, the water just flowed through the ice maker into the storage bin and out the chute. Made quite a mess on the floor.

This just started up out of the blue.

Switching the ice maker to the off position did not stop the flow, so a quick trip to the basement was made to shut of the water supply valve.

Guess we will bite the bullet and replace the entire refrigerator/freezer.
swilly43 Posted: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 10:33:11 AM(UTC)
 
Wow, I have a similar issue with my Kitchen Aid built in that uses the same parts. I have replaced the ice maker with no luck an am now looking at the LED boards. Did either of you ever get this resolved or did you buy a new fridge? Seems so simple.
t189dms Posted: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 10:54:49 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: CitadelBlue Go to Quoted Post
Sounds alot like my issue above ..... i suggest you get down on the floor and remove the small grill covering the very bottom of the fridge and freezer. It pops out, but you will have to have the fridge a nd freezer doors open. After doing that reach under there and jiggle the wiring harness that comes from the back of the freezer to the bottom hinge ... i heard my solenoid kick in the fill the ice maker .... if you get the same result... you and I have the same issue... a short in the wire .. close to the connector. I havent gone much further with my repair..... but got it on my to do list. Good luck.


Just checked the board and noticed your recommendation regarding the connections and wires. (I had not received and email notification regarding your comments.)

Removed the grill and manipulated all three wiring plugs that are visible. No change in operation. The solenoid did not start up. No ice. No luck.

Interesting that there have been no comments or suggestions from any of the pros on this service.

Oh well. We did get a refund from the service company parts less the service fee.
CitadelBlue Posted: Monday, May 8, 2017 12:11:44 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: t189dms Go to Quoted Post
Hi all,

Well, the ice maker was replaced and that did not correct the situation. The service guy then replaced the smaller of the two (the one on the right) circuit boards. After turning the power back on the LED lit up, but a few minutes later went out once again. He just returned today, swapped the old and new ice maker, the old and new circuit boards. The LED lit once again and after a few minutes went out again. I asked him how he knew that the smaller of the two boards was the issue and he gave me some vague response about the bulb appearing burnt. A few hours later I turned the breaker on and off once again and the LED lit for a few minutes and then went out. Still nothing.

I questioned the tech about the process of running diagnostics and he said that he was unable to do any such thing. So I said, you are just replacing parts based upon the probability that one of them are bad. Basically that's it. He said that if they returned the parts to the parts center that they might run tests to see if they are bad, but there was nothing he could do.

Told him that if there is no ice by tomorrow, I wanted him to reinstall the original parts and we would probably end up replacing the refrigerator....


Sounds alot like my issue above ..... i suggest you get down on the floor and remove the small grill covering the very bottom of the fridge and freezer. It pops out, but you will have to have the fridge a nd freezer doors open. After doing that reach under there and jiggle the wiring harness that comes from the back of the freezer to the bottom hinge ... i heard my solenoid kick in the fill the ice maker .... if you get the same result... you and I have the same issue... a short in the wire .. close to the connector. I havent gone much further with my repair..... but got it on my to do list. Good luck.
t189dms Posted: Monday, May 8, 2017 11:19:06 AM(UTC)
 
If you are still willing to send me the extra boards, I would give them a try to see if it would help. Thanks
t189dms Posted: Monday, May 8, 2017 11:17:46 AM(UTC)
 
Hi all,

Well, the ice maker was replaced and that did not correct the situation. The service guy then replaced the smaller of the two (the one on the right) circuit boards. After turning the power back on the LED lit up, but a few minutes later went out once again. He just returned today, swapped the old and new ice maker, the old and new circuit boards. The LED lit once again and after a few minutes went out again. I asked him how he knew that the smaller of the two boards was the issue and he gave me some vague response about the bulb appearing burnt. A few hours later I turned the breaker on and off once again and the LED lit for a few minutes and then went out. Still nothing.

I questioned the tech about the process of running diagnostics and he said that he was unable to do any such thing. So I said, you are just replacing parts based upon the probability that one of them are bad. Basically that's it. He said that if they returned the parts to the parts center that they might run tests to see if they are bad, but there was nothing he could do.

Told him that if there is no ice by tomorrow, I wanted him to reinstall the original parts and we would probably end up replacing the refrigerator....
CitadelBlue Posted: Saturday, April 15, 2017 10:31:44 AM(UTC)
 
After 27 days ... 6 parts ordered (Solenoid valve, both emitter boards, ice maker, master control board and power supply board), 1 pro service call and 734 views on this forum, my ice make is still not working ........BUT there are a few wires wrapped in a cloth sheath (actually there are 2 of them and 2 water hoses) running under the freezer cabinet and into the bottom hinge of the freezer door and up the door. Underneath, the freezer cabinet is a connector .... THAT connector has a short in it due to movement as the freezer door is opened and closed. Its a solid/poured connector, poorly designed/secured in m opinion. All I did was jiggle the wire and I heard the water valve for the ice maker kick in ........ Its a tight space working between the kitchen floor and bottom of the freezer cabinet. The harness is NOT sold separately -- it come with a new freezer door.

So I'm back to the drawling/idea board for this one.
CitadelBlue Posted: Thursday, April 13, 2017 4:55:20 PM(UTC)
 
673 views ....

10 hours since I installed the power supply ... still no ice .......

Read on another post about a possible broken wire that comes up in the heavy harness with the water supply tube at the bottom of the freezer at or near the bottom hinge ..... Anyone have an insight as to how to find the broken wire that is wrapped in heavy cloth sheathing?
CitadelBlue Posted: Thursday, April 13, 2017 6:59:18 AM(UTC)
 
655 views
Been working this issue for over a month.
Power Supply board installed.
$760 spent.
Waiting for ice ..... maybe