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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Single Mom Posted: Friday, March 14, 2008 8:02:43 AM(UTC)
 
Also, Thank you for the parts breakdown for my dryer. I will keep that in a safe place along with the continuity information. Have a great day... you guys are real heroes!!!!!
Single Mom Posted: Friday, March 14, 2008 7:59:26 AM(UTC)
 
Gene, I back tracked to all the items I messed with on the dryer. I took off the top rear panel and saw that the red wire had popped off its terminal for the push in dryer switch. Squished it back on with pliers and its back up running and heating. Feel like such an ass.......but I can tell you one thing I probably know more about dryers now then most women. Thank you again, and everyone for all your help. This is a wonderful site.
Gene Posted: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 12:26:01 PM(UTC)
 
Remove the rear cover and check the power cord connection to the dryer terminal block.

If there is nothing wrong - check for 120V on each wire to the heating element separate.

Gene.
Single Mom Posted: Monday, March 10, 2008 2:01:53 PM(UTC)
 
Yes, 240 across both hots
Gene Posted: Sunday, March 9, 2008 1:54:21 PM(UTC)
 
Did you get 240V across both hot wires?

May be the new breaker is not good or installed improperly?

Gene.
Single Mom Posted: Saturday, March 8, 2008 1:58:03 PM(UTC)
 
Ok.. i started at the outllet took cover off my 4 prong got 120 on each side using top L as neutral. I took both leads off and checked 13 56 58 and 34...they all registered a reading of 0 ohms,,,,,,,,,,,,needle moved towards 0...not infinity. The element I wasnt quite sure how to check, I put one lead on left coil and one lead on right coil, Got 0 ohm reading as well...not infinity....not sure whats going on. After I put new breaker in it worked for about 5 loads, then pooped out.
Gene Posted: Friday, March 7, 2008 4:13:33 PM(UTC)
 
The first thing I would do is check the following parts for continuity:

1. The heating element (#6 on the break down diagram)

2. The thermal cut-off (#34 on the break down diagram)

3. The hi limit thermostat (#13 on the break down diagram)

4. The cycling thermostats (#56 or #58 on the break down diagram)

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter – How to check continuity with Ohmmeter.

Any of these parts with an open circuit has to be replaced.

- The part number for the heating element is AP3109438

- The part number for the thermal cut-off is AP3094093

- The part number for the hi limit thermostat is AP3115922 (set on 155°)

- The part number for the cycling thermostats is AP3115922 (#56 set on 150°F, #58 set on 140°F)

Gene.
Single Mom Posted: Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:36:48 PM(UTC)
 
Same kenmore dryer, different problem. She won't heat up now. Runs but no heat. Maybe I should keep this dryer on a dolly for a few months? They say stuff like this runs in 3's. Any help appreciated.
Gene Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2008 11:37:17 AM(UTC)
 
I'm glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.
Single Mom Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2008 10:55:11 AM(UTC)
 
:) :) :) thank you so much. I didnt think there was access on the air duct but when jacked it up a bit I saw the large hole. It was big enough for me to wedge a screwdriver behind the lodged item and free it. Plus I found a lost tool !!!!!!!! You have taught me so much about my dryer I might just keep it for another 20 yrs! Have a wonderful day, thanks again!