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Just reporting that I finally got the whole mess sorted out. After further testing it looked like the start switch was my problem the whole time. I ordered a new one and installed it and cleaned the inside of the contacts on the inside of the wiring harness just for good measure.
That was last week and I've run several loads since then, haven't had a single problem.
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Ok, according to the multimeter it's not a fault in the neutral wire. I put the leads to both ends and got 1.1-1.3, which I'm told is normal. So is it possible my motor start switch is just fried? That would explain the discoloration on the wiring harness wouldn't it?
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I picked up a multimeter a few days ago, and once I figure out how to use it the right way, hopefully I'll be able to find out of it's a fault in the wiring harness or not.
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No progress on a solution, but I'm now wondering if it might be my motor start switch.
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I already posted that I got the knob off and timer swapped out. As for the lid switch, I know for a fact that mine will still agitate with the lid open, so I don't believe that's my problem.
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Bypass your lid switch. Some washers won't allow even agitation, much less rinse/spin cycle if the lid switch is kaput.
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Please post a pic. of the front of the timer that you can't get the knob off. I assume you checked for a set screw you need to loose in the knob to slide it off the shaft?
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I ran the test load and nothing has changed, it will fill with water and that's it, so unless this new timer is also bad I don't know what's going on. I don't know what the next step would be.
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Nevermind, I figured it out, it's like the safety cap on a bottle of asprin, you have to press in and then unscrew. I'm running a test load right now, hopefully everything will go smoothly.
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Ok, I've got a "new" timer here, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the knob on my current one so I can swap them out. I thought it would just pull off but that doesn't seem to be the case, so what's the trick?
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