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Yeah been doing this 40 years and just retired.Those side by side can be a PITA.Keep it going as long as you can,because the new ones will be junk.
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UPDATE: All is working fine now!
I fixed the faulty heater wiring connector.
Actually, I just cut out the old connector and then used a Raychem heat-shrink DuraSeal butt connector. I also put additional heat shrink around that (belt & suspenders :>) to be sure no moisture could get in.
BTW, this was a pretty big PITA.
The heater wiring is way in back and very hard to access to get a good crimp on the connection.
Furthermore, the freezer is very narrow, so I got a good workout contorting myself sideways, with one arm above and the other one below. I think that the next time I do this to an 18-yr old fridge, I'll just strip, twist, tape, and heat-shrink and avoid trying to crimp!
I was still waiting for the new bi-metal defrost thermostat to arrive,
but in the meantime everything was working, albeit with the old thermo.
The new thermo arrived yesterday and I just installed it last evening.
Again, I used the same technique as above to connect it in.
With longer wires and being a little more in the front, it was a lot easier to deal with.
Manually tested everything -- OK.
I left it overnight and it's gone thru a full cycle on its own and it's looking good!
I'm putting it back together now.
bv
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How did you make out?
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Quick follow-up.
Since the old freezer bi-metal thermostat seemed to be working now (after I removed it, heated and froze it a few times, and banged it around a little), and the heater is working (although with a flakey wiring connector), I decided to put the old thermo back in line and manually test the defrost cycle.
I let it run in cooling mode for while to let the thermo get to low temp.
Then I manually advanced the defrost timer defrost mode and let it run.
The heater came on and started defrosting, so the thermo was definitely closed.
I let it finish the defrost, but I didn't check whether the thermo opened up at high temp before the full 30 mins of defrost mode on the timer expired. Doesn't really matter since a brand new one is on the way in the mail.
Anyway, I left it all hooked up and let it run normally the rest of the day and overnight.
This morning I checked it and the defrost mode had just finished not too long ago and the evaporator coil was clean as a whistle.
Again, I think that I'll be good with the new thermo and heater wiring.
bv
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!!!!!
I checked a few minutes later
(just to clean the drain pan from the previous defrost),
and
the TIMER is RUNNING !! -- in COMPRESSOR mode !!
!!!!!
So, apparently, I just had to let the compressor run for a few minutes and he did something to close a circuit to the timer.
So now I have a new timer -- OK
Will have a new thermostat -- also OK.
I just need to replace the wiring to the heater (and maybe the heater) and I should be good to go !!
Thanks for all the help so far.
I'll follow up when I have built a whole new refrigerator - haha.
bv
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(EDIT: Never mind !! -- see the NEXT post
)
It finished the defrost, the timer exited to COMPRESSOR mode, having run for 30 mins.
I left the DEFROST circuit CLOSED, 'cause the timer is out of defrost mode, anyway.
However, still NO POWER to the timer, even though
. timer is in non-defrost mode
. Cold Control is *closed* (compressor & all fans running and freezer is cooling
. Defrost Bi-Metal is *closed*
So, why would the timer not be running??
bv
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So, I tossed the thermostat into the freezer overnight and tested it again this morning.
Now, it's CLOSED at cold, so not sure what I saw yesterday, although I did shake it around a bit while I fooling with it last night.
Anyway, so I decided to FORCE the thermo circuit closed -- I just used a wire nut and shorted the ends where I had cut the thermo loose yesterday.
NO GO :[ -- timer (still in COMPRESSOR mode) not moving - motor not running (in the new timer it has a clear housing and you can actually see the motor.
So, I manually advanced timer to DEFROST mode.
Heater not heating up :[
BUT!
As I was looking at the wiring harness in the freezer, moving wires around I heard the telltale hiss of a short and it looked like it was coming from one of the heater element connectors. So, I wiggled the connector around and the heater came on !!
So, right now I'm just letting it finish the defrosting -- the timer runs about 30 mins.
When done, I'll OPEN up the thermo circuit and see what happens,
Will report back.
bv
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I snipped the thermostat out and it looks like it is open at all temps, so I am ordering a new one. Of course, the thermo was my initial thought, but during messing around I got the heater to actually come on twice, so thought it must be the timer.
Hopefully, new thermo will fix it and the new timer was unnecessary. But, I certainly learned a lot more about timers than I intended, so the money and time was well spent.
I will update when I get new thermostat.
bv
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Originally Posted by: bobvance  yes, all of the evaporator covered w frost totally full top-to bottom and at bottom plugged the air holes so that the food comp warmed up -- that's how I first noticed it: the wine wasn't as chilly as normal ;>)
bv Wine wasn,t chilly.Can,t have that.3 things cause heavy frost ,timer , heater and defrost thermostat.I would change that defrost thermostat.
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yes, all of the evaporator covered w frost totally full top-to bottom and at bottom plugged the air holes so that the food comp warmed up -- that's how I first noticed it: the wine wasn't as chilly as normal ;>)
bv
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