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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Jason Kichline Posted: Monday, May 10, 2021 2:43:24 AM(UTC)
 
Does anyone know why R1 blows up? My dad thinks it might be in there to dampen inrush current when the relay switches (anti-bounce). He is a retired food service equipment technician/installer.
I replaced the resistor with 221 ohm 2 watt part. I used 2 watts hoping it would last longer. I had to stand it up off the board so it would fit. After about 1 month of use, the resistor opened up. At least it didn't blow up this time but the same problem occurred. This time I will try replacing the relay and see if that helps. Many thanks to this thread! VERY HELPFUL!
TimandS Posted: Friday, April 23, 2021 11:50:40 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Guest Go to Quoted Post
Hi all,

Thanks so much to this thread I was able to fix my Kenmore Elite Induction Oven (Model C970-441331 ). The problem was it wasn't heating up quick enough for most of the time but occasionally it would give me the run-away temperature error code. The oven would quite noticeably heat up very quickly and burn food. I also noticed that only one element would be on as indicated by the display. Convection would not work. I was stuck with a very slow or extremely fast bake setting. Something was awry.

I tested the oven thermostat and it was fine at around 1100 ohms. So I popped off the control board and saw that the R1 resistor was fried. I tested the relays as indicated in this thread. The bake one sounded to be in good working order, clear switching noise when I placed a 9V battery on the terminals. The other two, convection and broil, had a much weaker switching sound when I tested them so I suspected something was wrong with them.

I ordered the parts from Digi-Key and they were shipped over night pretty cheaply (unreal!). The part list is below using Digi-key part numbers. Thank you to whomever described what resistor is needed for this because mine was fried beyond recognition and I couldn't see the colour bands

Relay
PART: G5RL-1-E-HRDC12-ND
MFG : Omron Electronics Inc-EMC Div / G5RL-1-E-HR DC12
DESC: RELAY GEN PURPOSE SPDT 16A 12V

Resistor
PART: PPC221XCT-ND
MFG : Vishay Beyschlag/Draloric/BC Components (VA) / SFR16S0002210FR500
DESC: RES 221 OHM 1/2W 1% AXIAL

It was a pretty easy fix to desolder and solder in the new parts. I ended up replacing all three relays and the resistor for under $20 Canadian. The most difficult part was finding accurate information on the parts needed. I spent hours researching this! I wanted to make this reply with concise information to hopefully help someone else in the future!

Thank you again!


So the Omron relay listed above, did you order two of those to replace the two white relays that are side by side on the board? I haven’t pulled mine from the board but was thinking they would be the same part number.

For the 3rd relay, the larger black one, what part number did you purchase from digi-key as I see they have zero stock of the T9AV5L12-12?

I received the F10 error yesterday while preheating the oven. After preheat alarm, I returned to the kitchen to smell an electrical burn and then heard the resistor fry. The F10 error popped up and alarm chime began. I had to unplug the oven to turn it off. Pulled the board and the R1 is completely gone.
I’ve tested the relays and they all 3 appear to be working with open close and continuity and the temp prob is showing the correct ohms. I can only come think that one of the relays stuck during use and caused a run away heating situation which caused R1 to blow.




Kurt-YYC Posted: Sunday, April 11, 2021 12:07:35 PM(UTC)
 
Hi all,

Thanks so much to this thread I was able to fix my Kenmore Elite Induction Oven (Model C970-441331 ). The problem was it wasn't heating up quick enough for most of the time but occasionally it would give me the run-away temperature error code. The oven would quite noticeably heat up very quickly and burn food. I also noticed that only one element would be on as indicated by the display. Convection would not work. I was stuck with a very slow or extremely fast bake setting. Something was awry.

I tested the oven thermostat and it was fine at around 1100 ohms. So I popped off the control board and saw that the R1 resistor was fried. I tested the relays as indicated in this thread. The bake one sounded to be in good working order, clear switching noise when I placed a 9V battery on the terminals. The other two, convection and broil, had a much weaker switching sound when I tested them so I suspected something was wrong with them.

I ordered the parts from Digi-Key and they were shipped over night pretty cheaply (unreal!). The part list is below using Digi-key part numbers. Thank you to whomever described what resistor is needed for this because mine was fried beyond recognition and I couldn't see the colour bands

Relay
PART: G5RL-1-E-HRDC12-ND
MFG : Omron Electronics Inc-EMC Div / G5RL-1-E-HR DC12
DESC: RELAY GEN PURPOSE SPDT 16A 12V

Resistor
PART: PPC221XCT-ND
MFG : Vishay Beyschlag/Draloric/BC Components (VA) / SFR16S0002210FR500
DESC: RES 221 OHM 1/2W 1% AXIAL

It was a pretty easy fix to desolder and solder in the new parts. I ended up replacing all three relays and the resistor for under $20 Canadian. The most difficult part was finding accurate information on the parts needed. I spent hours researching this! I wanted to make this reply with concise information to hopefully help someone else in the future!

Thank you again!
Guest Posted: Monday, April 5, 2021 4:41:30 PM(UTC)
 
I had exactly the same problem.

There is no third relay. on the 3164627 board.

This stove's convection works by constantly switching between the top and bottom elements. It seems to cause a lot of wear and tear on the relay.

The relay with the de-soldered pin needs to be replaced.

I'm in Canada. I ordered it from newark.com, stock 34R9918, Manufacturer part T9AV5L12-12 and it was delivered in two days.
Sum-Guy Posted: Saturday, December 26, 2020 2:41:30 PM(UTC)
 
Hey, I wonder if you guys can help me out. Someone near me put out a stove at the curb - a Kenmore, stainless steel, convection with warming drawer. I have the stove now. It's in great shape, but there was a problem with the control board.

The board model number is 3164627, Rev F. I think this is the same board you're talking about in this thread. The connector for the L2 relay was browned up, specifically the L2 connector. The relay pin for that connector (the L2 out) had lost all its solder so it was no longer making contact on the PCB. The R1 resistor is fine. I figure either there is something wrong with the L2 relay or it was a bad solder joint. I haven't done anything yet with the board, just looking on digikey for relays.

My main question for now is - there are 2 white relays on the board, for P9 and P7, which is Bake and broil. P11 is for Conv - which is I guess the convection element? The stove has a fan on the back oven wall so I assume there should be a convection element behind the wall, but on the board there is no matching white relay for P11, just a blank space where the relay could be (K7 I think). Should there be a relay there? Or is it possible the board I have in this oven was a replacement board and didn't have the convection relay?
ThatGuy Posted: Friday, December 18, 2020 6:08:00 PM(UTC)
 
My guess is the main relays need to be replaced. They eventually burn their contacts and start sticking on or not making good contact. Both bad. Probably causes the 220 ohm resistor to blow when they stick. Relay failure is one of the most common reasons for board replacement.
niallp Posted: Friday, December 18, 2020 11:27:08 AM(UTC)
 
Looks like some progress since the last time I checked in ... guessing the burning of R1 could be related to relay flakyness, ie if L2 fails when L1 switches.

Just had another failure after almost a year working, replaced fried R1 again, this time with PTC in series to limit current.

Would be nice if they just could provide a robust replacement board but might be time for a new range :-/
UTRelectric Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2020 7:16:41 PM(UTC)
 
Hey all, thanks for all the insightful information! I too had the R1 resistor burn up. With the help of this site, I knew what value of resistor to replace it with.

I also tested the relays with a 9v battery and they all sounded like they were working, so I put it all back together to give it a test run...

Unfortunately it had the same problem as before I put the new resistor in: the oven would come up to temperature, but then (even though the display indicated it was remaining at set temperature) it started dropping in temperature.

So I flipped the control panel up over the stovetop so I could watch the relays (in dim light), and could see one relay arcing (flashes of light inside when the contacts closed).

I again removed the control board and, while actuating each relay with a 9v battery, checked for continuity... one did not have continuity when “closing” with the relay coil, but it was not the same one that was arcing.

I replaced the two trouble relays with equal-rated 16A 250V with 12v coil (but other branded) relays, and all is good now!

Thanks again for this site and your information. Hope my information helps someone too.
Dirty Paws Posted: Saturday, October 10, 2020 1:15:28 PM(UTC)
 
Finally got my board working. I went to an Appliance repair technician near me looking for the K1 relay, which he didn't have, but he did have a damaged board he gave me for free. This board had heavy damage on P9 and P7, but the R1 resister was good. So I removed the donor K1 relay, bench tested it and it was good. Inserted it into my board with a new R1 and the R1 didn't blow, but the unit didn't work. I then bench tested my original K1 (passed) and inserted it back into my donor board, and I repaired all the damage to the donor. The back side of the donor had delaminated the copper tape from the board, but there was enough remaining to spread out the solder and use a donor pin from P3 to secure it back to the board. I then attempted to plug in the donor board. It all seemed to work, except the donor board had a different connector for the thermocouple (which I left off) and the unit threw me an error message. I then replaced all the relays on my board with those from the donor, bench testing them all (all were good). The unit still didn't work. I then made a huge commitment and went all in to fix the donor instead of my own. There were 19 different jumpers, resisters and diodes I had to remove from my card to the donor. When I was done the unit still didn't work but the resister did not blow. The only difference I saw was the U2 EPROMM was a different manufacture, so I switched them (mine to donor which is now the card I'm using) and this time the R1 blew up. I thought I was getting close, so I ordered and replaced the U2 with the same manufacturer: ST PN: ULN2003A (along with another R1 220 ohm resister) and SUCCESS.

So my best guess is my EPROMM was what caused the R1 failure, but to be honest there is an outside chance that there was another diode or the like that my original board may have also failed. If I had to guess if there was a complementary issue it would be the D13 Diode, as it did not survive the transplant. When I went to remove it, the diode cracked and broke apart. I didn't think I was using too much pressure pulling on it when I removed it so I half suspected it may have also been damaged. I gambled and used another diode from D11. This transplant was done prior to the new EPROMM, so I'm still rather certain the EPROMM was the main and likely sole issue.
Bertrand__ Posted: Saturday, October 3, 2020 5:07:59 PM(UTC)
 
I had the same problem with my R1 resistor burning. I replaced the resistor with a new 220 ohms resistor and not it works perfectly. The resistor costs only 10 cents, I found one a at local electronic store. To make sure it does not burn again, I purchased a 3W resistor instead of the original 0.5W.

To replace it, I watched a youtube video how to mount a resistor on a PCB board. It basically takes 5 minutes using a soldering gun and soldering wire (borrow one from a friend or you can purchase them for 20 $).

I could fix the problem the same day. I am very happy not to purchase a new board at more than 200 $ or wait for a technician (that would have cost at least 100 $ to tell me to change the board).

Thanks to everybody on this blog to identify the problem and tell what resistor type to purchase.

******************

Update 2 weeks later : the resistor did not blow, but my board started to display an error message and the oven stopped working (or I should stay started to burn my food). So the resistor blowing up is not the problem itself bu a sign of something else not working. I recommend not changing it. I unfortunately decided to go for a new appliance because replacing the board is almost half the price of a new appliance.