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Thanks much for the advice and taking the time to answer fairbank56. The counterweight is not loose. I haven't taken off the top to look at the straps, but I think those are probably OK. And nothing is hitting on the bottom during operation.
So I think I will go ahead and get a clutch/mode shifter and try to replace that. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the advice!
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Check the counterweight on the tub platform. Sometimes the bolt that secures it comes loose. Check the 4 dampening straps at top of tub. Look closely under tub support during operation to make sure nothing is rubbing or hitting on the bottom panel. This model is on the list of models prone to a sagging apron causing interference at bottom panel. If all ok, looks like a faulty mode shifter.
Eric
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Thanks fairbank56, actually I was mistaken. The basket is not moving back and forth with the agitator.
The only LED I can see under there is a green one blinking on and off, which I assume probably means that it thinks that there are no errors.
Now during the wash cycle, there is kind of a new sound tonight. It's almost like some gears are just missing and grinding into each other - a bit of a medium-pitched grinding, a slightly higher grinding than the noise I was hearing before. This is when just the agitator is twisting back and forth.
Listening more on the wash cycle, rinse cycle and spin cycle, when it runs at medium to high speed, it sounds almost like a paint mixer (those machinesthat shake paint cans) with a du-du-du-du sound. The sound is definitely related to how fast the machine spins.
All in all, I guess it sounds kind of like the clutch assembly/mode shifter must be bad. I don't think there's anything else in there really that's moving when this extra noise occurs. And it doesn't seem like there's anything else that would make that metallic tapping sound or gears grinding sound. Any other opinions?
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The basket is not supposed to spin back and forth with the agitator during wash cycle. If it is, then the mode shifter is bad. Check the blinking error code indicator on the top right side of the circuit board on top of the motor. If it is flashing 4 times, then pauses and repeats, that indicates a failed mode shifter coil. This is a common problem and according to GE, is caused by someone opening/closing the lid at a certain point while the washer is operating. They recommend replacing both the mode shifter and motor/inverter. The firmware on the inverter board has been updated to prevent the problem with the mode shifter happening again. This is very expensive as you can see. I doubt that your tub bearing needs replacing. So, you can either replace the mode shifter, replace mode shifter and motor/inverter or invest in a new washer. Any parts purchased from APP are warranted for one year.
Eric
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My 5 year old GE profile washer is making noise whenever the basket spins. During the early wash cycle (where the agitator & basket just spin maybe a 1/4 turn back and forth), it's not very loud. But you can hear kind of a low grinding/rumbling-type noise with each turn. And maybe a couple metallic or metallic/plastic tapping/clinking sounds with each turn. Then, when the machine enters the spin cycle, or other cycle where the basket spins around continuously, the machine is much louder than it originally was - kind of a low-to-medium rumbling sound. I took off the front panel and the extra noise (and all the noises mentioned above) are all coming from the bottom of the basket area. I've also tried spinning the basket with the washer off, and it does occasionally make the metallic/plastic-metallic type tapping/clinking type noise, but it doesn't make any kind of low rumbling/grinding type noises. So it seems to me from reading forums and watching YouTube videos along with taking a look at the parts diagram: https://www.geappliancep...ts/assembly/WCRE6270K1WWthat the culprit must either be the tub bearing (part #WH2X1198) or the clutch assembly/mode shifter/shaft arm (part #WH38X10017). Is there any way to tell if it's one or the other? Replacing either one involves pretty much taking apart the whole washer and putting it all back together again, so I'd prefer to only do that once. I guess if there's no way to tell, I could just replace them both, but the clutch is ~$110-130 whereas the bearing is only $15-20, so it'd be nice to know if swapping only the bearing would work. Thanks much in advance for any help anyone can provide.
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