|
|
Originally Posted by: Wilsonwelch  Well, it ain't fixed !!! There is still no "on" light or start when the button is pushed. What does the "on" light not coming on mean? Is it time for a new control board? Or, is there still hope for a diagnosis of where the problem is?
Help, where do I go from here? @Wilsonwelch What did you determine was wrong?
|
|
|
You don't say if you did replace the wax motor. I assume you did because otherwise you will have caused those two components on the board to fail again.
Replacing parts on the board is a very difficult task unless one is skilled and experienced in that type of work (I am not, and having tried I know of what I speak). So it is possible your fix did not work.
As far as going forward is concerned, if you have gotten 16 years out of this horrific machine you have won the equivalent of the lottery. Celebrate by replacing it, your pocketbook will be lighter but your life a whole lot better.
|
|
|
Well, it ain't fixed !!! There is still no "on" light or start when the button is pushed. What does the "on" light not coming on mean? Is it time for a new control board? Or, is there still hope for a diagnosis of where the problem is?
Help, where do I go from here?
|
|
|
Sorry, after more searching on this site, I should point out that the above fixes were on here as well. The Appliance Parts Pros are a wealth of help and great source of parts. Especially for my 16 year old Maytag Neptune.
Thanks Guys!
|
|
|
Well, since there was no help here, I went to another website. There I found a solution involving replacing R11 and Q6 on the washer control board. I had received an updated wax motor with the motor and control update I did a few years ago. Somehow I didn't see fit to install that updated wax motor as the old one worked fine. Turns out that old wax motor is probably what caused the current problem with the washer control board. There is a test mod that will show if the washer will work with these burned components removed. If so, a new R11 and Q6 should fix the problem.
I also took the drum out to see if there was a broken bolt on the shaft bracket. I've replaced the shaft bearings and rear shocks without fixing the "knocking" problem a few months ago. One of the three studs that hold the drum to the shaft bracket was broken. I'll replace all three studs with 5/16 x 1-1/4" long , grade 5 bolts and lock nuts.
Hopefully I'll have success with fixing both problems. Should be up and running soon.
|
|
|
When "Start" button is pushed, there is a click, but "on" light does not come on, and washer does not start. Washer has updated motor and motor control from several years ago. Motor and control test in "Delay" setting with JP4 disconnected was successful in that motor ran around 50 RPM. Wire colors from motor control to motor do not match repair manual "Motor Test" colors. Instead of blu, wht, org, yel, red & blk, they are brn, wht, blk, gry/wht, gry & grn. Green seems to be ground. Ohm readings are 8 ohms between brn, blk & wht wires (in any combination). No other ohm readings with any other wire colors. Since Motor & Control test indicated a bad motor control, I bought a new one, which tests same as old one. I also checked all of the out-of-balance and door switches, which seem okay. Don't know where to go from here.
|
