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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
markj7777 Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 7:13:44 PM(UTC)
 
It was getting 120 around the end of the wash cycle.. I will try replacing the solenoid.
markj7777 Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 3:06:00 PM(UTC)
 
[IMG]http://someimage.com/nkPbN4G[/IMG]
http://someimage.com/nkPbN4G
markj7777 Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 2:46:39 PM(UTC)
 
UserPostedImage
markj7777 Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 2:42:59 PM(UTC)
 
Thank you.
The model is GSC3508K00WW.
Canadian if it makes a difference.

It seems like it operates the way you describe. To measure across the solenoid, do I put the meter leads in between the plug and the solenoid terminals (without detaching plug, one on each side)? I guess it should read 120 when it approaches the end of the wash cycle, and again at the end of the rinse cycle?
denman Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 2:33:15 AM(UTC)
 
A model number would help.

Measure across the solenoid for voltage.
If it gets 120 volts when it is supposed to start a drain cycle but does not pull down then I would replace the solenoid.

Note that on many GE's the 120 volts is not across the solenoid for the full drain cycle. It gets power for a few seconds at the start of the drain an is pulled down. The water pressure then holds the wash/drain flapper valve in the drain position until the unit is empty. The springs on the drain mechanism then pulls the flapper back to the wash position.

if there is no voltage check the wires from the control to the solenoid.
If OK then odds are the timer or control board is bad.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
markj7777 Posted: Tuesday, March 18, 2014 7:36:28 PM(UTC)
 
Hello,

My portable GE dishwasher (Profile?, enclosed blade motor- I will have to get #s) is not draining. I have found this problem again and again while searching, but my problem is a bit more specific:
I think I traced the problem to the solenoid that switches the pump to "drain". When I pull down on the little lever attached to it, the dishwasher will drain.
I tried testing it with a multimeter, set to Ohms X10, and got 50 (ie. 5 * 10). I think this means it should still be good? Could it possibly be another component such as the timer not telling the solenoid to activate? I just dont want to buy a new solenoid and find that is not the problem..
Any help appreciated.