|
|
ah, you're right, cbrodsky :) i had forgotten about that. (I'm only 1.5 years into the appliance repair business, still getting EVERYTHING engrained into my head).
larrycooper, as well as the orifice at the base of the burner, there are also air shutters on the burner itself near the base, that may need to be adjusted as needed. if your flame is too yellow, open the air shutter up a little :)
|
|
|
thanks, I'll let you know how it urns out
|
|
|
Masterquinn - you are right - I had already completed that step and forgot to mention that.
But in addition to flipping that part, there was also a shutoff valve build into the body of the regulator that I had missed and that's why I had no flow to either bake or broiler.
|
|
|
yes, there is a plunger on the gas valve that needs to be switched when you do any conversion. normally you just unscrew it, turn it upside down, and screw it back in ( with the gas off, of course ). In regards to the broiler not working, there is an orifice at the base of your burner that may need to be loosened several turns to allow for the thinner natural gas to flow properly. this orifice is screwed in all the way for propane, and loosened 3-4 turns for natural gas.
|
|
|
My case was resolved by something pretty easy that I had overlooked - there was a valve on the regulator that needed to be opened up to allow flow to the oil and broiler.
In your case, if your oven is working and the broiler is not, from what I've read on other threads, you may need to test that the broiler ignitor is OK. Even if they glow, they may not be dropping the resistance to the level needed to start the gas flow - there are specific ways to test this. Hopefully someone more experienced can comment.
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: cbrodsky  Hi -
I have a GE gas range (JGB281DER4WW) that was previously converted to propane by someone before me. I just converted it back, ordering new orifices and following the directions provided. All 4 rangetop burners are working well. As far as I can tell, this range has never been used - it's too perfectly clean inside and out.
I cannot get the oven or broiler element to light. The correct igniter glow bar comes on when I turn on the oven or broiler respectively, and I've given it up to two minutes to start. During this time, I do not smell any gas or hear anything suggesting the gas valve is actuating. It seems that the glow bars can fail when they don't allow enough current to flow, but it seems strange to me that both glow bars would fail on a brand new stove. So I'm suspecting the gas valve.
Any suggestions on how I could confirm this or anything else I should be checking?
Thanks,
Colin I have almost exact same problem - Im looking at replacing dual gas valve which controlls both oven and broiler. Oven works fine but broiler doesn't. My igniter element heats up but there is no gas comming through. Have you gotten any further with your repair
|
|
|
Hi -
I have a GE gas range (JGB281DER4WW) that was previously converted to propane by someone before me. I just converted it back, ordering new orifices and following the directions provided. All 4 rangetop burners are working well. As far as I can tell, this range has never been used - it's too perfectly clean inside and out.
I cannot get the oven or broiler element to light. The correct igniter glow bar comes on when I turn on the oven or broiler respectively, and I've given it up to two minutes to start. During this time, I do not smell any gas or hear anything suggesting the gas valve is actuating. It seems that the glow bars can fail when they don't allow enough current to flow, but it seems strange to me that both glow bars would fail on a brand new stove. So I'm suspecting the gas valve.
Any suggestions on how I could confirm this or anything else I should be checking?
Thanks,
Colin
|
