|
|
The ohm check on the start device is normal. Generally, ohm checks of the compressor windings will not show shorted turns or burnt windings. To properly test the compressor, must use an amp probe to verify start and run current. Your compressor is probably drawing high current and shutting down on it's thermal overload.
|
|
|
it has 7.9 ohm between the start and run pins.
|
|
|
The new start device must have three output pins. The two lower pins are start and run, if no ohms between them, it's bad, get a new one.
|
|
|
it's #4344040, just the overload. the relay and overload combination does not fit my machine. I can hear the click sound, occassionally the buzzing. The compressor is warm but not vibrating. It was warm when it failed for the first couple days. Here are the ohm numbers of the compressor: 7.9 (r-s), 3.3(c-r), 4.8(c-s). None of the terminals is shorted. When the defrost timer is on, and temp control turned to level 4, I measured continuity between power plug legs to line going to start and run pins. 0 ohm from one plug leg to run, other readings are a few ohms or very high. As I mentioned previously, 119v on the run pin, no voltage on the start pin when connected.
|
|
|
I need the part # of the new start device, I assume it is box type including overload a start ptc. Also, I need to know what the compressor is doing now.
|
|
|
There is voltage of 119.9 between the compressor's common and another terminal (not sure it's start or run) when I keep all things connected and turn on the fridge.
|
|
|
My amana side by side fridge stopped working, and will not stat, lights and fan are running, I can here the click sound. relay seems to be good. overload rattles, but I ordered a new one it rattles as well. Does that mean the new overload is bad? defrost timer seems good too. compressor measured good. What else I should check?
Thanks
Jason
|
