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Originally Posted by: frd1952  Great job Joe...all installed and working fine. THANK YOU for the help, patience, quick replies, quick shipping, and just generally great input and advice, etc etc. This has been fun and easy with your assistance. I really appreciate it.
Frank Frank, You did all the work, you deserve the "Great Job" We're just glad, we could meet or exceed your expectations, and get you up and going. Thanks for the confidence and support.
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Frank, Let's try this, page 2 heading "4 Install new switch." of the instruction sheet, heading B. Connect motor leads to the new switch. This refers to the wires from the interior of the motor, and the terminals should be attached to the "lower" terminals of the new switch. Heading "C. Connect wire harness leads to the new switch" of course refers the the wire harness in the cabinet, and the terminals should be attached to the "upper" terminals of the new switch. The large "heavy guage black wire, should be the "neutral" leg of the power cord, and should attach the the upper W terminal of the new switch(pg.6 is the wiring diagram to refer to). Great job Joe...all installed and working fine. THANK YOU for the help, patience, quick replies, quick shipping, and just generally great input and advice, etc etc. This has been fun and easy with your assistance. I really appreciate it. Frank
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Originally Posted by: frd1952 Hey Joe...THANK YOU as the part showed up in about 30 hours after I pressed send...WOW !
HOWEVER, as I feared the instruction sheet is missing one wire from the unit. The BLACK wire, thicker and from the 110 V plug wire itself is not mentioned at all in the instruction sheets ??? On the old switch, this wire was on the top connection of the White connection with the White wire being on the bottom. So the instruction sheet shows W goes to the W connection, my question is does the Black wire also go onto (top spot) of the W connection ? Also, FYI, the W wire is not long enough to reach the new spot on the other side of the new switch so you have to make a new W wire...just in case you have any input on things like the instruction sheet and this wire. Please confirm that the Black wire goes onto the same connection point as the W wire Joe....thanks, Frank Frank, Let's try this, page 2 heading "4 Install new switch." of the instruction sheet, heading B. Connect motor leads to the new switch. This refers to the wires from the interior of the motor, and the terminals should be attached to the "lower" terminals of the new switch. Heading "C. Connect wire harness leads to the new switch" of course refers the the wire harness in the cabinet, and the terminals should be attached to the "upper" terminals of the new switch. The large "heavy guage black wire, should be the "neutral" leg of the power cord, and should attach the the upper W terminal of the new switch(pg.6 is the wiring diagram to refer to).
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Hey Joe...THANK YOU as the part showed up in about 30 hours after I pressed send...WOW !
HOWEVER, as I feared the instruction sheet is missing one wire from the unit. The BLACK wire, thicker and from the 110 V plug wire itself is not mentioned at all in the instruction sheets ??? On the old switch, this wire was on the top connection of the White connection with the White wire being on the bottom. So the instruction sheet shows W goes to the W connection, my question is does the Black wire also go onto (top spot) of the W connection ? Also, FYI, the W wire is not long enough to reach the new spot on the other side of the new switch so you have to make a new W wire...just in case you have any input on things like the instruction sheet and this wire. Please confirm that the Black wire goes onto the same connection point as the W wire Joe....thanks, Frank
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Originally Posted by: frd1952 OK Joe...thanks. Ordered the part and will install next week after it gets here. Will holler if any issues.
You have been a great customer service/tech person in this deal and I appreciate it.
Frank Frank, Great Deal, will keep an eye out for any posts. But, we'd appreciate a positive report as well. Thanks for the compliment, You're Welcome !!! Thanks Again,
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OK Joe...thanks. Ordered the part and will install next week after it gets here. Will holler if any issues.
You have been a great customer service/tech person in this deal and I appreciate it.
Frank
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Originally Posted by: frd1952 Hey Joe, I will order the part as soon as I finish this reply. Seems like the connections are different on the new sw vs. the old one, and the new one has that blue jumper that I don't see on the current one. Here is how my current one is wired ( http://i228.photobucket....ntswitch_zpse2526bed.jpg ) and if you go back one further picture at that site you will see a pretty clear pic of the new sw and the connection points. Can you tell me where the following "top wires" will connect onto the new sw (they have the heavy white plastic shields/ends on them...one is green actually on the heavy black wire)... BR, BK, GY, BLU, and then same for the ""bottom wires" (regular slip on connector ends) BR, W, GY, BLU ? I assume Y & Y go where they were and still says Y on the new sw & same for R / R . Thanks Joe. Frank Frank, Nothing to worry about. Being a substitue and revised replacement part Part number: AP3117747
The part has an instruction sheet (prt # 675397), that has all the wiring and installation information you'll need. You'll do fine.
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Hey Joe, I will order the part as soon as I finish this reply. Seems like the connections are different on the new sw vs. the old one, and the new one has that blue jumper that I don't see on the current one. Here is how my current one is wired ( http://i228.photobucket....ntswitch_zpse2526bed.jpg ) and if you go back one further picture at that site you will see a pretty clear pic of the new sw and the connection points. Can you tell me where the following "top wires" will connect onto the new sw (they have the heavy white plastic shields/ends on them...one is green actually on the heavy black wire)... BR, BK, GY, BLU, and then same for the ""bottom wires" (regular slip on connector ends) BR, W, GY, BLU ? I assume Y & Y go where they were and still says Y on the new sw & same for R / R . Thanks Joe. Frank
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Originally Posted by: frd1952 Joe, The selector rocker sw for Solid Pack tested out OK since Closed moved to/from Y & OB when Solid Pack selected or un-selected. So must be the "extra" sw on the centrif sw on the motor. Took it out and apart...pics (4) can be seen at Are These 2 Switches Stacked ? Photo by FRD-BWood | Photobucket ...p/n on the top of the sw is 777971. Is this actually 2 switches stacked on each other and inner-connected, and IF so do I need the top one or the bottom one (p/n=?). Seems like it comes apart for top/bottom but afraid to pop it wide open as looks like the contacts will be flopping around. In any case can you answer above questions and tell me what p/n I need and IF it is just part of this total sw will it easily come apart and go back together and have the same # & location of contact points ? If it is all one piece, is it still this p/n and will new one have same contact points, location for hook ups as my pics ? Thanks for hanging in there with me on this Joe....Frank Frank, Great job, Based on the post information, you'll need to replace the motor centrifugal switch Part number: AP3117747
The new motor switch is a "single" one piece component, so be careful with it, don't let it "fall" apart on you. Label all the wires(your pictures will help) before you disconnect them, remove the two screws and lift the original switch off the motor. Reverse the procedure and test the machine.
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Joe, The selector rocker sw for Solid Pack tested out OK since Closed moved to/from Y & OB when Solid Pack selected or un-selected. So must be the "extra" sw on the centrif sw on the motor. Took it out and apart...pics (4) can be seen at Are These 2 Switches Stacked ? Photo by FRD-BWood | Photobucket ...p/n on the top of the sw is 777971. Is this actually 2 switches stacked on each other and inner-connected, and IF so do I need the top one or the bottom one (p/n=?). Seems like it comes apart for top/bottom but afraid to pop it wide open as looks like the contacts will be flopping around. In any case can you answer above questions and tell me what p/n I need and IF it is just part of this total sw will it easily come apart and go back together and have the same # & location of contact points ? If it is all one piece, is it still this p/n and will new one have same contact points, location for hook ups as my pics ? Thanks for hanging in there with me on this Joe....Frank
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