Bummer. I was afraid of that. I guess I was just in denial. :eek:
The price information given for the control board in the link you so graciously supplied is significantly more than we paid for the stove. I guess we took a calculated risk, and it appears not to have paid off.

We are going to have to give this some serious thought, but the odds of Mr. Whirlpool being taken behind the barn and shot are pretty high at the moment...

What is the difference between the set and real temperatures?

I don't have a hard measurement for this. What I can tell you is that in a timed test I ran with the oven set to 350 degrees, it was at 150 at the end of the preheat cycle. At the end of an hour, it was at 347 degrees and had stayed there for at least ten minutes.

How long takes to light up thee burner since you push the Start button?

I'd guess it's a minute or less.

Pull out the Broiler and watch the flame. How high is it?

Quarter inch? Half inch?

What is the color of the keypad? Black.

Hi. I came to this forum out of pure desperation. We have a Whirlpool SF315PEPW1 gas stove (oven does not self-clean). It has been converted to run on propane. It was supposedly made about 1995. We bought the stove used (obviously) about a year ago. We do not know how long the previous owners had it and if it spent any time idle while they owned it.

As soon as we got it, we noticed stuff was underdone. We tried to live with it by just goosing the temperature up, but that was not a permanent solution.

About a month ago, I started doing in-depth research to try to figure out what the deal was. Some Internet research made it look like the likely culprit was the ignitor. It was comparatively inexpensive and easy to install, so I thought "what the heck?". I ordered, received and installed one. It glowed brighter, but didn't really change anything.

After further research, I checked the resistance of the temperature sensor.
It was about 1060 ohms at room temperature. At 350 degrees, it was within 10% of 1600 ohms. A parts dealer indicated these resistances were in spec. Furthermore, no error codes are displayed. I got real aggressive in my questions at that point.

After talking to others, I removed and checked for obstructions in the oven burner by trying to run water through it. There weren't any. I dried and replaced the burner. Also, the stove burners work fine. I'm told this proves the stove was converted to propane properly.

I'm left with a malfunctioning oven and not much left to check. It looks to me like the culprit is either the motherboard or what? the gas valve? If it's the motherboard, I'd say the thing has had it.

Are there any experts out there who can help me diagnose this thing, or tell me it's time to take it behind the barn and shoot it?