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It probably was the brakes sticking which would cause the clutch to slip causing the burning smell. As long as it is spinning fast enough to get the water out of the clothes to your satisfaction, it might be ok. If you start having problems with slow spin speed or not spinning at all again, you will need to pull the gearcase to service the brakes and clutch.
Eric
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Hi Eric and all,
So, I was testing the washer last night and when the spin cycle hit, I started pushing hard on the drum clockwise. It took a while, but the spin cycle finally started and then took off! :)
I ran a few test loads after that and it "appears" to be working now. This washer was sitting around for a month or so in a garage, so I guess it's possible that the brake was stuck or something else was held up internally. What do you think the issue was?
Also, is it possible that other any damage was caused before I released this issue (burning smell, etc)? I ran about four loads with the previous problem. What else should I check for when I open it up? I want to do a solid overall check.
Since this washer is going to be put in a tight space, I want to make sure it is ready to go before final install...
Thanks,
Jeff
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Since there seems to be a problem with agitation as well, yes, it could be the drive coupler. If the lower agitator is functioning properly, then it's not likely the coupler but still possible. You will have to pull the motor to check the coupler. The motor spins in one direction for agitate mode and the opposite direction for spin so if it agitates ok then the coupler is working in that direction and should in the other but it does take more force to operate in spin direction so there's a chance it's the coupler. That's easy to replace and inexpensive.
Eric
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Ok, I found a video about the jump out, sorry I'm new to this.
I still want to know about the potential coupler issue, though, please advise.
Thanks
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Thanks Eric. Yes, the washer drains ok. For the spin problem test, do I leave the water connected and on after I remove the cabinet? Also, how do I jump out the lid switch, press it with a screwdriver with the lid open during spin cycle?
Also, is it possible that this is a coupler issue? How can I tell?
-Jeff
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With washer off, you should be able to rotate the upper agitator in one direction only. If you can rotate it in both directions the "dogs" are probably worn out and need to be replaced. For the spin problem, you need to remove the cabinet and jump out the lid switch to operate the machine in spin mode and observe the clutch. I assume the washer drains ok? If so, the motor is running ok in the spin direction. After drain, the motor should pause for a few seconds and then start again at which time it should start spinning while draining. At this point, observe the clutch hub. If it is spinning then your clutch is slipping or the brake cam driver is broken. If not, the gearcase is bad. Eric 
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I am having a few problems with a Whirlpool direct drive washer model LSC8244DQ0.
- First off, the washer starts and fills ok, but the agitator seems quite loose on the top and makes a strange noise while agitating.
- Second, the tub will not spin during the spin cycle and there is a burning smell coming from it after it drains.
- Third, the tub is brownish in color from hard water and I want to remove them
How do I figure out what these problems and fixes are?
Thanks,
Jeff
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