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You are welcome. We are glad you were able to fix it.
Thank you for the feedback.
Gene.
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I installed the new icemaker assembly and now it's producing ice just fine. It seems the optics were never a problem so i'm returning those. Look at the attached photo, to the burned-out copper contacts inside the plastic gear of the icemaker. This undoubtedly was the root cause of the failure. Thank you for your help. Case closed:) . Originally Posted by: jazzbike2  I have tried all this further testing and ultimately decided that I am unable to determine whether the icemaker assembly, harness, fuse or the ice maker control board (emitter-receiver) are bad. It's possible both major components are bad. Therefore, I am ordering both items and will return whatever may not be needed. Thank you for your advice. I will try to remember to report back the results here once the parts arrive and are installed.
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I have tried all this further testing and ultimately decided that I am unable to determine whether the icemaker assembly, harness, fuse or the ice maker control board (emitter-receiver) are bad. It's possible both major components are bad. Therefore, I am ordering both items and will return whatever may not be needed. Thank you for your advice. I will try to remember to report back the results here once the parts arrive and are installed. Originally Posted by: Gene Just to add my 2 cents... The thermal fuse is spliced into the black wire of the ice maker wire harness. Remove the ice maker from the freezer, unplug the wire harness from the ice maker and check the black wire for continuity. If the thermal fuse is open that means the ice maker was overheated. I would recommend to replace the whole ice maker because the chance of successful repair on ice makers is very low. The new wire harness is coming together with the ice maker. - The ice maker Part number: 2198597
Gene.
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Just to add my 2 cents... The thermal fuse is spliced into the black wire of the ice maker wire harness. Remove the ice maker from the freezer, unplug the wire harness from the ice maker and check the black wire for continuity. If the thermal fuse is open that means the ice maker was overheated. I would recommend to replace the whole ice maker because the chance of successful repair on ice makers is very low. The new wire harness is coming together with the ice maker. - The ice maker Part number: 2198597
Gene.
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All of the optics check out fine (that is all of the LED flashing sequencing). So why is it that I would need a new "ice level control board?" When I jumper the black wire with the black-white wire on the connector to the receiver board and get full line voltage on the white and black-white pins on the connector for the icemaker (and also then get full line voltage on test points L&N), the icemaker itself still shows no signs of life -- the motor doesn't run (even when I jumper T&H). I saw reference in your attachment, Troubleshooting Chart C, to the possibility that the "thermal fuse in icemaker harness is open." Is there really a fuse in there? If so, how do I test that fuse? Please advise, and thanks. Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Hi. Follow the attached instructions. Most likely the problem is bad optic control Part number: 4389102
Post the results. Simon.
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Hi. Follow the attached instructions. Most likely the problem is bad optic control Part number: 4389102
Post the results. Simon.
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I have a somewhat similar issue. Kenmore Model 106.55606400 refrigerator, icemaker doing nothing. No voltage across L&N test points. What could cause this lack of voltage and how to fix? Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team You'll find the test points behind the icemaker head cover.
Simon.
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You'll find the test points behind the icemaker head cover.
Simon.
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Thank you for such a prompt response! My wife will be pleased if I can finish this out quickly. So, I will pull the fridge out tonight to access the water valve inlet on the back. As I understand it, I am switching plugs around on the water inlet valve to try to feed water into the icemaker. However, where are the testing points L and N on the icemaker for testing with the multimeter? On the control module? I will check the water inlet tube to see if frozen, I assume it will be obvious in an accessible area...? And, most likely there needs to be no testing of a "thermistor"?
Thank you for your time, sir!
-Dave
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Hi. The temperature in the freezer should be around 0*F. Using the multimeter check for 120VAC at the icemaker test points L and N. Next switch around the plugs at the water inlet valve and push the water lever at the dispenser. If the icemaker fills up - replace it. Make sure the fill tube isn't frozen. If it is that is the sign of the bad water valve. The water valve Part number: 2006766
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