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You are welcome.
Simon.
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Hi.
Yes, you are correct.
Simon. Grounds checks out good. Will make the decision if it's worth $400 to fix now. Thanks much for all the help, Simon.
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Hi.
Yes, you are correct.
Simon.
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team hi.
The fact that there is no 120VAC at 4-7 and 4-6 pointing to the oven control board. Check if the unit and spark control grounded. Most likely it's the control board.
Thank you.
Simon. Great -- thanks for the info, Simon. I'm somewhat of an electronic novice, so would the best way to check the spark module for being grounded be by using the ohmmeter between the ground pin (J2) and the chassis with the range unplugged? Also, when you say to check the "unit" for grounding, do you mean the chassis to the outlet ground?
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hi.
The fact that there is no 120VAC at 4-7 and 4-6 pointing to the oven control board. Check if the unit and spark control grounded. Most likely it's the control board.
Thank you.
Simon.
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Thanks for responding, Simon. Here are the test results: 1) Pins 1 & 2: 0 vDC 2) Pins 2 & 3: 0 vDC 3) Pins 4 & 6: 6 vAC 4) Pins 4 & 7: 6 vAC 5) Pins 4 & 10: 120 vAC 6) Pins 4 & 9: 6 vAC (tested with lighted top burner) Some testing assumptions, in case I misunderstood the procedure: 1) Tests were done while in oven pre-heat mode. 2) Tests made 1 minute into the pre-heat cycle to make sure the unit wasn't in a 30 second purge state. 3) Black probe (com) applied to Pin 2 for tests 1 & 2, and Pin 4 for tests 3, 4, 5 & 6.
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Greetings,
I have a Whirlpool sf362lxss0 gas range, and neither the oven nor broiler will light. The top burners are working fine. There are no error codes.
After looking at the service sheet included with the range, it says the solenoid on the gas valve should test at 216 ohms between the oven/common and broiler/common terminals. I tested mine, and the both read 201-202 ohms.
When trying to light the oven/broiler, there are 2 clicks from the control panel, but nothing else. The preheat timer continues to run down to completion, and beeps like the oven is preheated.
I'm contemplating replacing the gas valve, but not sure the 201 ohm reading is far enough "out of spec" to be the cause. Has anyone has experience with this to know if this is a likely solution?
Thanks for an insight you can provide.
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