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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)
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How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter
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[quote=MrFixItAlready!;290933]Considering the fact that this is a theory-only guide unless you've got a meter in your hands, it does a great job describing how to use them! The last time I used one was in college (five years ago or more) and I think this is the best refresher I could ever find. If anyone asks me how to use a meter, I'll be sure to point them here. :) And since you're so good about answering questions here, I've got a problem with my Fridgidaire dishwasher, model FDR252RBB2, that I'd thought was due to the plastic part that sits on top of the pump motor's drive shaft. The problem is that I hear the motor working, but no water flows into the dishwasher, just a small trickle and slight bubbling in the pump housing. There's a page at a competitor's site (Appliance Zone) that shows a picture of the pump and motor assembly (the part is hidden in the picture from this site) that shows the plastic part in question at the top of the picture. This site appears to be VERY aggresive about filtering any other web addresses, so I can't post their pic, a link to their page, or even their name without the space because it gets turned into a series of *'s. So to see the pic, go to "www.appliance zone.com/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=5047#", without the quotes or the space between appliance and zone. The part is broken at the base of the shaft, where it meets the circular fins, so my assumption was that this part being broken is what was causing the issue. But just this morning I decided to double-check what was going on since I could clearly hear spinning inside the dishwasher when I opened the door during operation. I removed the spray arm (there is only one for this unit) and diffuser and found that the upper impeller was spinning perfectly. So I removed the upper impeller, macerator, pump housing cover, pump slinger, volute cover, lower impeller, and seal one at a time, watching for any differences in part movement or blockage. Everything turns along with the broken part's shaft since the upper impeller screws into it and the rest of the parts slide down over it. When I took the seal out, it looks like it might be broken too because the image below shows that there should be plasic going all the way through the rubber seal itself, with a kind of cap at the top, but in my case, only the rubber part is removable. [part]AP3209244[/part] The rest of the part appears to be inside of the pump housing, but it looks like it's got a rubber seal around it too, which doesn't make sense based on the parts breakdown diagram seen at [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5151268&diagram_id=1241286#d1241286"]Motor & pump replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FDR252RBB2 Frigidaire/dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com[/URL]. The parts breakdown only shows one seal part, so is mine broken and/or separated somehow and that's what's causing the water not to fully flow or is it related to the broken motor drive shaft part? Sorry for the length of this post, but I've been fighting with this thing for quite a while now and it's getting pretty ridiculous. I've just lost my job, so I'm really hoping for a cheaper fix than buying the whole pump and motor assembly if it's not necessary since this is the only way to buy the plastic part that slide over the motor drive shaft.[/quote]
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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
hamed22
Posted:
Friday, March 2, 2018 11:07:19 AM(UTC)
Hello
I wanted to know what tool is needed to charge the gas cooler gas
repair
challis91
Posted:
Sunday, September 28, 2014 4:07:52 PM(UTC)
Does anyone know what the tolerance is for the coils inside of a drain pump I am wondering if mine isn't too high I know that is a long distance to carry a charge but I got 13 ohms when I tested it. is that within spec or is it a little high it has stopped the drain process once but all O-rings are good and wires test out fine. this is the second drain pump in 4 months.
Gene
Posted:
Friday, December 28, 2012 1:31:04 PM(UTC)
Good news! Hopefully the problem gone.
Gene.
realist26
Posted:
Thursday, December 27, 2012 6:10:20 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Gene
You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
After checking the fuse and finding it intact i put the rear cover back on thinking my next move would be to call a qualified repair man...when i plugged it back in it started working and has been working great ever since. Thanks for the advise.
Gene
Posted:
Monday, December 17, 2012 1:53:17 PM(UTC)
You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
realist26
Posted:
Friday, December 14, 2012 8:53:12 PM(UTC)
Your right...i'll check the fuse first...Thanks again Gene!
Gene
Posted:
Friday, December 14, 2012 8:37:08 PM(UTC)
I do not think that resetting the power will help in such situation. I also do not think that it is a good idea to replace the part without testing it for continuity first. It was just an educated guess on my side. You have to verify it.
Gene.
realist26
Posted:
Friday, December 14, 2012 8:20:54 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Gene
Hello,
There is the inline thermal fuse which is wired into the red wire connected to the control board. Very likely this fuse is open.
- The inline thermal fuse
Part number: 9781691
Here are the breakdown diagrams and
Parts for Whirlpool GR450LXLB0 Range - AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Thank you Gene...i was told to try and reset the unit by unplugging for 2 minutes. Is this a viable first step or should i just replace this fuse first?
Gene
Posted:
Friday, December 14, 2012 8:15:50 PM(UTC)
Hello,
There is the inline thermal fuse which is wired into the red wire connected to the control board. Very likely this fuse is open.
- The inline thermal fuse
Part number: 9781691
Here are the breakdown diagrams and
Parts for Whirlpool GR450LXLB0 Range - AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
realist26
Posted:
Friday, December 14, 2012 7:47:49 PM(UTC)
Can someone help me with a problem with my whirlpool model gr450lxlb0 oven elements not coming on even though the control panel counts down on preheat and starts the cook time?
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