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Re connect the switch and unplug the machine. Place the timer anywhere in any cycle and pull the knob out. Using a meter or continuity tester, see if there is continuity between either of the blades of the plug, and the ground pin. If there is, you have a short somewhere that we need to track down and correct. If not, then a component in the system is drawing too much current. According to the wiring schematic, the fuse should be rated for four amps.
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The switch was not replaced by a pro, but it is correct. I drew a picture to make sure I got it back correctly. After replacing the switch the washer will start for a few seconds and then the fuse will blow. I would think there is another switch that has a problem but not sure where to look. If you can help I'd be happy. I still have the switch bypassed so the washer will work.
Thanks;
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Sounds to me like the switch assembly is wired incorrectly. Did a pro replace it?
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With the fuse blown the washer would fill but noting else. When the fuse was replaced and the lid switch removed with the black and red wires hooked together, the washer works fine. When the lid switch is replaced, the wires hooked up, the fuse blows again. The switch has been replaced twice so it is ok. What is the next possibility?
Thanks;
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