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We are glad you were able to diagnose and fix the problem.
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Alright, finally got to it. It was the outlet. There was power and the cord was good, but the contacts int he outlet were loose, creating a poor connection.
Thank you all for your time and concern. I really appreciate you all and this forum.
Merry Christmass!
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I checked continuity between the places that should be closed in the circuit of the timer and the Start button. Everything seems good, but I can't check everything with the tools I have at hand. I tried to use my chinsy meter to get a reading on the AC coming in from the cord, but I don't know if its right because I got nothing at the distribution.
I tried putting the old fuse back inline, but still nothing.
that's what I've done.
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Let's start it over. Did you perform any tests using the wiring diagram I posted for you?
If you did, what exactly did you do?
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It sounds like it was converted from natural gas to propane. ?
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I am not sure it was originally electric. We got it second-hand. I'm just going by the sticker on the door I told you about.
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Are you sure the dryer was originally electric? electric means the heating source was an electric heating element, powered up by 240 VAC. Also, by the model number you provided your dryer originally had a gas burner as a heating source.
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It was converted before we got it by LP Kit#49572, so says a sticker on the inside door lip.
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Originally Posted by: Hurtle  ...This unit was converted from electric to LP, does that make a difference?... Who and how convert it? Please, describe as detailed as possible.
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How often do power cords fail?
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