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Amazing.
I have a GE side by side "yellow in color" purchased in 1972 and no repairs necessary in the last 51 years and the still going strong. Another GE with a top freezer (low-cost unit) "white in color" purchased in 1995 and no repairs necessary in the past 28 years.
Yet the latest purchase, another side by side "stainless", in 2014 required a compressor overload switch / relay 15 months later, 3 condenser fan motors, 3 evaporator fan motors (now needs another one) and 2 mother boards. The unit worked perfectly after each "modification" for extended time periods. So as not to blame the mother board or the individual motors. No need to search for power surges (unit is protected) or to question the installation. As this needs to be evaluated and viewed upon as the questionable development of a bad product. And "to knock down" a reply referencing why so many units. The yellow one is at a different location and the white one hides in the basement so as not embarrass the stainless one.
However, this 9-year-old wonder is and should be an embarrassment to General Electric and to the engineering staff that developed this product.
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Hi. I’m new to this forum trying to find help for the problem I describe below. My GE Fridge is a DSS25KGRBBB side-by-side and is 14 yrs old.
About 2 weeks ago, we noticed the freezer section not being as cold as before with food starting to thaw and ice to melt. I observed the evap fan spinning very slowly - I thought too slow to pull sufficient air through the evap coils. You could barely feel any air coming out the vents. I checked the evap coils and they weren’t iced up so blockage was not a reason for the low air flow. (Also please note that I changed the defrost thermostat, defrost heater and all 4 thermistors in the unit around 1 year ago as we were having issues with the evaporator icing up).
I checked the main board and it looked fine so I decided to replace the evap motor (WR60X100074). Upon turning the unit back on the fan was spinning fast (like I remember it doing) and the fridge and freezer worked fine for 1 week before the temp started to rise again at which point I noticed the evap fan was not coming on at all and upon checking the main board found the upper of the 2 fairly large resistors burnt out. I removed the 1-week old evap motor and found it to be burnt out (using an external DC source). With the board being the original 14 yr old one I decided to change it along with the burnt evap motor and I also changed the evap thermistor to be on the safe side - so all 3 parts were now brand new.
I re-installed everything and all was working fine - fan spinning strongly, freezer cold, ice maker working great, etc. This morning (so 5 days later) I woke up to find food in the freezer thawing again and the evap fan not coming on at all. I then checked the main board to find that the same resistor that had burnt on the original board had burned on this one too. Arghhhh!! I have not had the chance to check the evap motor but I’m quite sure I’m gonna find it was burned out just like the previous one.
So having changed the evap motor, thermistor and the board, I am totally stumped as to how the board and the motor have again burned out. And prior to all this happening, in the 14 years I’ve had the unit I’ve never had any issues with the evap fan.
Greatly looking forward to some expert opinions on this.
Many thanks in advance...
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GE started creation electronic refrigerators, which have one motherboard that controls all functions of the refrigerator. The motherboard controls all so, hypothetically everything that fails on a GE electronic refrigerator can be cause by the motherboard. The deception is to decide if the trouble is the board or a little else. With the cost of these boards there is no require to replace one unnecessarily. Under are some symptoms that are usually caused by a faulty motherboard on these type of refrigerators.
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GE started creation electronic refrigerators, which have one motherboard that controls all functions of the refrigerator. The motherboard controls all so, hypothetically everything that fails on a GE electronic refrigerator can be cause by the motherboard. The deception is to decide if the trouble is the board or a little else. With the cost of these boards there is no require to replace one unnecessarily. Under are some symptoms that are usually caused by a faulty motherboard on these type of refrigerators.
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When my refrigerator do not work very well then I contact my dealer and they replacing my GE refrigerator evaporator motors and motherboards.
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If anybody has re-oiled a motor and found it did not harm the board, please let me identify. I have ample of used board and will use one the after that time I see a breakdown, but without a test process am unwilling to use a used motor in a customer's fridge. Imagine a present check of the winding attainment the square wave might be a high-quality test.
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Boy, my evaporator coil was all iced up too, replace the heater element and thermostat, ended up being the motherboard. It was controlled electronically. All working fine now.
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Is this info only for GE, or are there any other nameplates that it is relevant for?
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I think a lot of times the DIY'ers are not given enough credit. Got to remember a lot of DIY'ers maybe in similar trades as us and are able to read and understand our diagrams just fine and for the ones who can't we are more then happy to help. Our appliance repair forum is a community of both tradesman and DIY'ers, people helping people.
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