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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Jerry / APP Team Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 12:19:05 PM(UTC)
 
Here you go. This is the part with an illustration.

Part number: AP3137510
Jerry / APP Team Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 12:16:10 PM(UTC)
 
Hello,
The part number for that emitter/receiver kit is [AP3137510].
cessna180patrick Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 11:07:49 AM(UTC)
 
Jerry, the model number is KSRS25RVMS02. Over the weekend I pulled the emitter board and jumped pins 3 and 4 in the connector, re-installed the icemaker, and it made perfect ice all weekend. Let me know if this looks right to you. I am now more than ever convinced that it is the board so I am ordering one. Thanks and I'll post my results when the new board is installed.
Jerry / APP Team Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 5:14:29 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: cessna180patrick Go to Quoted Post
I've got a KitchenAid KSRS25RVMS02 with a dead icemaker. The optics check good per the 2-blink w/flapper out then steady w/flapper in procedure. Fill tube not frozen. Pulled icemaker, with it connected only 33.5 vac via L & N check. Disconnected and removed it from cabinet. Checked harness continuity good in black wire with inline fuse. In the box Molex connector, GRN/YEL wire was good to ground, White wire also good to ground. Tan wire goes to fill valve and has good continuity. BLK/WHT wire has only 33.5 vac. Where does the BLK/WHT wire supposed to get the 120 vac from? Looks like it comes from emmitter unit so do I need to replace that boards?? I'm stumped. Could a plug connector have developed internal resistance? All lights, fans, and indicators work perfectly. I'm hoping for some help on this from you experts. Thanks in advance, Patrick.

Hello,
It is most probable that the board has failed but the possibility exists that the problem could be a poor electrical connection at a molex connector or a partially broken wire. Post your model number and I'll dig up a wiring diagram so I can tell you which connector and which pin should have your ice maker output voltage on it.
Jerry / APP Team Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 5:10:20 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: chrisawol Go to Quoted Post
Jerry I looked at it and it has the 2flashes then a one second when flap open and a solid when closed. I also checked the water filler it is not frozen.

SO what should I do next.

Also , when i close the flap and the light turns solid and wait, I hear a noise after a bout 10 seconds like a motor or gear moving for a second or two.

Hello,
The ice maker cycles rather slowly so when you hear the motor or gear noise, you should watch the harvest fingers on the unit to see if they are rotating. You may need to watch them with a small mirror as some are not where you can look directly at them. If they are not rotating, you probably need to replace the ice maker or the ice maker module.
chrisawol Posted: Sunday, March 25, 2012 11:18:41 AM(UTC)
 
Jerry I looked at it and it has the 2flashes then a one second when flap open and a solid when closed. I also checked the water filler it is not frozen.

SO what should I do next.

Also , when i close the flap and the light turns solid and wait, I hear a noise after a bout 10 seconds like a motor or gear moving for a second or two.
cessna180patrick Posted: Friday, March 23, 2012 7:45:18 PM(UTC)
 
I've got a KitchenAid KSRS25RVMS02 with a dead icemaker. The optics check good per the 2-blink w/flapper out then steady w/flapper in procedure. Fill tube not frozen. Pulled icemaker, with it connected only 33.5 vac via L & N check. Disconnected and removed it from cabinet. Checked harness continuity good in black wire with inline fuse. In the box Molex connector, GRN/YEL wire was good to ground, White wire also good to ground. Tan wire goes to fill valve and has good continuity. BLK/WHT wire has only 33.5 vac. Where does the BLK/WHT wire supposed to get the 120 vac from? Looks like it comes from emmitter unit so do I need to replace that boards?? I'm stumped. Could a plug connector have developed internal resistance? All lights, fans, and indicators work perfectly. I'm hoping for some help on this from you experts. Thanks in advance, Patrick.
chrisawol Posted: Friday, March 23, 2012 10:59:55 AM(UTC)
 
I will check thanks for the help
Jerry / APP Team Posted: Friday, March 23, 2012 6:17:54 AM(UTC)
 
Here is a guide that will help you understand what you're looking at.
Jerry / APP Team Posted: Friday, March 23, 2012 6:05:40 AM(UTC)
 
Hello,
I need you to look at something for me. Open the freezer door and press the flapper down that's located on the left wall. Without blocking the beam, I need to know what the light does. On constant, flashing? If it's flashing, how many flashes between the one second pause? We need to eliminate the optics before we can diagnose the ice maker.