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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
flensr Posted: Monday, April 29, 2024 8:46:28 AM(UTC)
Hello I have a whirlpool WRF736SDAM13 fridge. About 4 years ago it would not defrost properly. I replaced the bimetal defrost thermostat and it still wouldn't defrost, and after replacing every inexpensive part it still wouldn't defrost so I replaced the expensive main control board. The fridge worked another 3 years and then stopped defrosting again. This time it was obviously the defrost thermostat so I replaced that and it worked for another year and a half until just yesterday.
Now the defrost thermostat is bad again.
Does anyone have any idea why I'm going to have to replace the defrost thermostat for a third time? Are the replacement thermostats just cheap and poorly made so that's why they keep failing?
mungbeans Posted: Sunday, July 2, 2023 10:25:27 AM(UTC)

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

Hello, the search box link results in an unfound page.
Does this model search feature still exist? If so, what's its url
dsandrews2 Posted: Friday, August 26, 2022 5:57:07 AM(UTC)
Maytag MFI2568AES. Does the defrost timer in the icemaker control the entire freezer temp? Is doesn't work. Could it be the cause of a warm refrigerator compartment? Thanks
earlprocko Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2022 2:19:47 PM(UTC)
Wow! What a knowledge bomb this thread is!!! Thanks! I tried my best to get through all of it but maybe made it half way? I still have some questions so I will try and ask and see what happens...

I have a Maytag fridge - model MFD2560hse

Same problem freeZer cold - fridge warm....

When i opened it up i realized there was no frost problem but the evaporator fan was not working.

I took it apart and checked the ohms... it read something like 35... i tested the leads that would run into the fan when the fridge was plugged in hoping to get 120v but instead I got 60v ? Im not super versed in multimeter so I am unsure if I am doing this wrong? I made sure to hold the door switch shut too.

I tried hooking the fan up to a power cord (i know this isnt recommended) and plugging straight into an outlet. The fan moved for a split second then stopped... did the same thing every time I plugged it in. So im thinking the fan motor is shot? Im hoping this is my problem... But what of the 60v read out? What am I doing wrong there? And should I be testing out other areas to see if the problem is something else? Should I be trying to figure out the thermistor? Or even the control board?

Thanks so much to all the wizards out there helping the poor folk out! Eager to fix more things on my own and just generally learn and understand how things work...
Anniedos Posted: Wednesday, November 3, 2021 3:24:20 PM(UTC)
Whirlpool GS5SHAXNL02. The freezer was frozen over and the fan did not run probably because of the ice and the refrigerator was warm. Unplugged the refrigerator and took off the back of the freezer to get to fan. The fan checked out OK. When I turned it back on I got an error message on the temperature dials that read H=0, P=1, E=2 and C=3. The frig ran for less than a minute and then turned off. The fan ran when it was first turned on. I replaced the bimetal defrost thermostat and Thermistor but I still had the same error message and the frig did not continue to run. Any suggestions to get it running or should I buy a new refrigerator? thanks
Meliisa Posted: Monday, July 19, 2021 8:07:41 AM(UTC)
Thanks again... 😊
mauriceshoemake Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2020 5:57:19 PM(UTC)
i have a kenmore elite model number 795.74023.412 i have replaced the capacitor the thermistor and the pcb board my problem is i cant get fridge to cool down all the way like it should its about 7 degrees off it wont hold temp it goes up and down fridge and freezer are doing the same thing fridge about 45 and freezer at about 5 degrees it acts to me like it dont come on when it should but when it does it cools off pretty quick to around 40 i cant get it down to 33 or any colder then 40 any ideas on which way to direct me
jhonbruce Posted: Wednesday, October 7, 2020 10:36:04 PM(UTC)
When your fridge is just too heating, you realize it. Food spoils too quickly. Odors arise greater readily. Your sodas are not icy bloodless while you crack them. If you simply hold cranking down the temperature placing however your refrigerator simply may not cool, there are some alternatives for the feasible purpose.
Such as,

1. Over packed or overfilled freezer blockading air waft
2. The evaporator fan is terrible and desires replaced
3. Frost blockading airflow
4. The freezer vicinity desires to be cleaned
5. Defrost machine defective

Most fridges use a fan to transport the bloodless air withinside the freezer into the evaporator after which push it into the refrigerator compartment to hold it cool. The evaporator fan is generally in the back of the again wall of the freezer compartment vicinity. This is what pushes bloodless air into your fridge phase to hold it cool. If piles of boxed frozen meals or something is meddling with the air waft with inside the freezer, you may have a heat refrigerator compartment.

If your refrigerator and or freezer is overstuffed, the bloodless air can't flow into. The air desires to pass freely to flow into and hold gadgets cool. If you've got got an overfilled or grimy refrigerator/freezer, smooth it out, throw a few vintage meals away, and rearrange the cabinets so the air can waft. Once the gadgets aren't blockading the air waft, it needs to take an hour or to get backtrack to the right temperature.

Be positive to test the stream lovers and make sure you may listen to them running. But remember, if any of the components of the refrigerator defrosting machine fails, your freezer may also ice up. This will purpose your freezer to appear bloodless however your sparkling meal phase is just too hot. So you could just do a little troubleshooting as to what component has failed. As said above, the evaporator fan is maximum in all likelihood of the defective component. The strategies given on this web page will paintings for aspect-by-aspect fridges also.

To take a look at to look in case your refrigerator has a defrost difficulty…
1 – Unplug your fridge
2 – Leave the freezer door open for at the least 12 hours
3 – Be positive ground of the freezer is now not bloodless to touch
4 – Plug the fridge again in
5 – If the refrigerator appears to be running well approximately 30 to forty-five mins after plugging it in, it might be a defrost difficulty inflicting your problem
df925 Posted: Sunday, March 29, 2020 11:49:15 AM(UTC)

I have a PSW23PSRASS and the refrigerator shows 37, however when I put an infrared gun to it it shows between 45-55 throughout the refrigerator compartment. It does show 40 at the grille sensor (thermsistor)

The interesting thing is that by the grille sensor (sensor) is located on the wall that is shared between the refrigerator and the freezer. Right below the grille sensor, is the tube that connects the freezer evaporator with the refrigerator.

That area in the refrigerator section would form ice balls.
Prior to and after installing WR49X10180 (De Ice Ball kit), the temperature still shows above 45.

If I leave the turbo cool on, it seems to be better at keeping the rest of refrigerator at the same temp.

I'm thinking about moving the thermsistor to the middle of back of the fridge, or even all the way to the outer wall.

Thoughts? Anyone else face this issue?


reversalact Posted: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 4:28:33 PM(UTC)
I'm having the same problem with our Kelvinator refrigerator. It really takes some time before some of the items to cool.
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