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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Sean_Herrera Posted: Saturday, May 12, 2018 6:08:20 PM(UTC)
Hi. I’m new to this forum trying to find help for the problem I describe below. My GE Fridge is a DSS25KGRBBB side-by-side and is 14 yrs old.

About 2 weeks ago, we noticed the freezer section not being as cold as before with food starting to thaw and ice to melt. I observed the evap fan spinning very slowly - I thought too slow to pull sufficient air through the evap coils. You could barely feel any air coming out the vents. I checked the evap coils and they weren’t iced up so blockage was not a reason for the low air flow. (Also please note that I changed the defrost thermostat, defrost heater and all 4 thermistors in the unit around 1 year ago as we were having issues with the evaporator icing up).

I checked the main board and it looked fine so I decided to replace the evap motor (WR60X100074). Upon turning the unit back on the fan was spinning fast (like I remember it doing) and the fridge and freezer worked fine for 1 week before the temp started to rise again at which point I noticed the evap fan was not coming on at all and upon checking the main board found the upper of the 2 fairly large resistors burnt out. I removed the 1-week old evap motor and found it to be burnt out (using an external DC source). With the board being the original 14 yr old one I decided to change it along with the burnt evap motor and I also changed the evap thermistor to be on the safe side - so all 3 parts were now brand new.

I re-installed everything and all was working fine - fan spinning strongly, freezer cold, ice maker working great, etc. This morning (so 5 days later) I woke up to find food in the freezer thawing again and the evap fan not coming on at all. I then checked the main board to find that the same resistor that had burnt on the original board had burned on this one too. Arghhhh!! I have not had the chance to check the evap motor but I’m quite sure I’m gonna find it was burned out just like the previous one.

So having changed the evap motor, thermistor and the board, I am totally stumped as to how the board and the motor have again burned out. And prior to all this happening, in the 14 years I’ve had the unit I’ve never had any issues with the evap fan.

Greatly looking forward to some expert opinions on this.

Many thanks in advance...
defurr Posted: Wednesday, August 3, 2016 6:53:47 AM(UTC)
I gather from the fact that this is the #2 most popular post in this sub-forum that GE evaporator fans are pretty problematic? I have a GE Profile PFCS1PJZSS French door that I inherited. It can't be more than six years old. A year ago, I think the evap fan was getting bogged down by frost. A repairman told me the compressor was bad. I allowed the unit to sit for a few hours, plugged back in, and it worked like a champ for another year.

Then, last weekend, same symptoms (warm fridge/cold freezer), but no fan noise. Different tech comes out and proclaims the same thing: "Only 5% of evap coils working. $3K to replace sealed system. Need a new fridge!" And yet 24 hours after the guy left, freezer is once more at 0 degrees.

Granted that my evap coils might be under-performing a bit, but if fan isn't working at all (which is clearly the case, based on room temp fridge) then couldn't I just get that replaced and keep using this thing for at least a while longer?
hamish05064 Posted: Thursday, April 21, 2016 12:02:25 AM(UTC)
That support is too confusing one and not working fine for me
joebob01 Posted: Saturday, December 12, 2015 4:05:19 PM(UTC)
I have a psf26pgta ww and the evap fan doesn't always run causing my ice to melt a little then refreeze. I checked supply voltages (red wire) at the control board and they were at 18v instead of the 13.6 its supposed to be. and I get nothing checking the yellow. does that seem like a control board problem rathr than fan problem?
smiley1989 Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2014 12:02:23 AM(UTC)
Hey I was hoping someone could help me with my ge fridge model#PSS26SGPASS /serial # SF413296... Im pretty sure I seen it on here before, but can't find it now.. Alright so the compressor/ condenser fan is not spinning very fast and the compressor is getting really hot... I have floor fan on compressor to help cool and it works. Both freezer and fridge are at right temps. So I think its the fan but I seen a diagram on here where you guys test the motherboard, so could someone send that diagram to me just so I could be 100% sure before I replace fan... Thanks in advance because I know you guys help me all the time.
Susan24 Posted: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 6:30:49 AM(UTC)
I have a GE Profile model PSS27NGNABB. The refrigerator part is cool but the freezer is not cold. It normally makes ice fast but the ice bend has hardly any ice. How can I tell if the compressor is going on this refrigerator and would it be worth fixing, if it is the compressor? It sounds like a something bottomed out (clunk noise not whinning) it's kinda like the compressor is trying to work-would this be the problem?
richappy Posted: Sunday, August 10, 2014 12:15:57 PM(UTC)
If the evaporator motor fails it usually burns out the driver on the motherboard unless the motherboard is the new style with relays isolating the drivers from high current due to failing motors.
Very rarely will any motherboard damage an evaporator motor, the drivers are limited to the 12 volt supply level. If the internal dc supply should put out much higher voltage, internal electronics would probably fail before the motors. If not, all the motors would probably fail, not just the evaporator motor.
So, it is suggested to replace just the failed evaporator motor, unless you can see a burnt resistor on the board, or you have other motors that failed. This is even more justified if the motherboard is the new style with the extra 3 relays.
GBEARSS Posted: Monday, July 22, 2013 11:37:06 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: GBEARSS Go to Quoted Post
Hi, Bought house with GE fridge Model; GSS20IETAWW that warms up second time in 3 wks. Bought new cond. fan motor last time ,havn't installed yet. New fridge 2K,not likely.What should I be looking for to test. Your experience base seems quit broad.thanks in advance. Glenn.

Follwed test till it said contact a pro. Found a bad heater bulb,installed double heater bulb.He said pump unit working ok cause center door post warm. Will feel more confedent if I have trouble in the future. Thanks again. Glenn Bearss.:) :) :) :)
tyndall00 Posted: Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:50:32 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Unplug the refrigerator before going further!

Disassemble procedure:

1. Remove the four ¼” ice maker bracket screws located at the four corners of the bracket.

2. Remove the two ¼” ice dispenser drive mounting bracket screws and remove the brackets.

3. Remove the two ¼” upper evaporator fan ductwork screws.

4. Unlock the tabs and remove the lower evaporator fan ductwork.

5. Remove the four ¼” evaporator cover screws and remove the cover.

6. Remove the two ¼” upper evaporator fan duct work screws located at the lower portion of the ductwork.

7. Using a small flat screwdriver, unlock the tabs for the ice maker and dispenser cables.

8. Slide the upper fan ductwork out.

9. Disconnect the evaporator fan wiring harness.

To test the evaporator fan motor skip to the test procedure, otherwise proceed further.

10. Remove the ¼” screw for the evaporator fan ground wire.

11. Remove the two ¼” evaporator fan bracket mounting screws located at either side of the bracket.

12. Remove the evaporator fan assembly.

NOTE: The evaporator thermistor must be replaced when replacing the fan.

The evaporator fan motor test procedure:

1. Unplug the refrigerator to reset the main control board.

2. Warm up the freezer thermistor to 70°F and set the temperature controls to middle settings.

3. Reconnect the power.

4. Check for 13 VDC from the red to the white wire and between 8 to 13 VDC from the white to the yellow wire at the evaporator fan connector.

5. If there is correct voltage for both, then the evaporator fan motor has to be replaced.

6. If the voltage is incorrect, then the main control board has to be replaced.

7. If the voltage is incorrect, check the resistance between the white to the red wire and the white to the yellow wire. If it’s less than 1K ohm, the evaporator fan motor is shorted and has to be replaced.

Best regards.

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GBEARSS Posted: Saturday, June 29, 2013 5:27:12 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
I don't see anything else at this time.

Hi, Bought house with GE fridge Model; GSS20IETAWW that warms up second time in 3 wks. Bought new cond. fan motor last time ,havn't installed yet. New fridge 2K,not likely.What should I be looking for to test. Your experience base seems quit broad.thanks in advance. Glenn.