|
|
I checked my circuit breakers and they are fine. The 3-prong outlet works and is fine. My dryer runs and runs and never gets hot and never turns off. It has to be shut off manually. I have replaced the following and cleaned out all lint from everywhere. Am I missing something? Please help. AP3094244 (279816) - Thermal cut-off for dryer heating element 309 degrees (includes high-limit thermostat)
AP3132867 (3392519) - Thermal fuse (disposable, one time fuse)
AP3131941 (3977767) - Thermostat, fixed
AP3094254 (279838) - Dryer heating element
AP3131939 (3387134) - Dryer cycling thermostat, L155-25 :confused:
|
|
|
Dryer gas valve coil can do the job the first time and then fail to completely energize afterwards - a common problem.
|
|
|
If the gas valve coil is bad,it will not operate even once...
|
|
|
|
|
|
Make sure you check each (potential) electrical fuse, thermostat, heating coil for continuity. You'll need a multimeter to do this. (Radio Shack -$29). I found a $11 thermostat bad. This did the trick. Give this a try. Make sure the dryer is unplugged when you check for continuity.
|
|
|
Whirlpool gas dryer LGQ9557KQ0 heats on start up but flame does not come back on after.
I cleared the lint housing, checked the orifice . . . appeared fine.
I was checking the parts illustration and saw the internal thermostat bias AP3045874, the T-stat-hi-limit AP3084674, and I read the threads on checking the thermal fuse AP3132867. I'm trying to diagnose or troubleshoot. Would the thermal fuse do that and what do the other 2 items affect?
I just measured continuity across my thermal fuse . . . eliminate that as a possiblity.
Thanks,
Mark
|
|
|
Unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. You should then see the thermal fuse right on the blower housing. Make sure to remove one wire from the fuse before testing.
|
|
|
Sorry - the thermal fuse?
|
|
|
How do you get to that part to check the condition?
|
|
|
Go for the digital multi-meter.
They are much nicer to use.
|
